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Routes in Lichen Wall
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Big Splash T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Fantastic Voyage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Fool's Aid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Full Monty, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hankin's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2 |
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Isabelle (AKA Path of the Righteousness) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Jay's Gully T A2 |
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Jesus Lives T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ker Plunk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Large Corner Girdle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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League of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Liaozano Route, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Monkey's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Munge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Naked Hedge, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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New Number 8 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nubian Dance T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Nuclear Balls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nuclear Combat T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nuclear Dance (Link-up) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Old Number 7 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Practice Aid Crack T C1 |
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Rage T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Riverside Attraction S,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rock Bottom TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Same Reality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spaceballs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spaced T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tra Hex T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Underman T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vegetarian Delight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Whiffle Dick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Chris Banks and Eric Forney, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 772 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Feb 17, 2017 |
| Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Description
This 40' traverse pitch connects Nuclear Combat with Spaceballs. From the double ring anchor atop the stellar 11a crux pitch of Nuclear Combat, step right (yellow alien placement) and traverse on good holds over to the bolted anchor above the unfinished climb that Duane had called Isabel. Clip the anchor and step down and under the big roof to the left of League's second belay. Place a #1 Camalot in a flake under the roof then balance your way out right (crux) until you can pull onto the second belay ledge of League of Doom.
This connecting pitch allows the climber to do an excellent four-pitch tour de force of Lichen Wall at 5.11a. Pitch 1 - the first pitch of League of Doom (5.10a R/X); Pitch 2 - the crux pitch of Nuclear Combat (5.11a); Pitch 3 - Nuclear Balls (5.10a); Pitch 4 - Spaceballs (5.11a) or Fantastic Voyage's 3rd pitch (5.8). With the exception of the runout first pitch of League, this entire four-pitch linkup has great protection. All of the pitches are of excellent quality.
This connecting pitch allows the climber to do an excellent four-pitch tour de force of Lichen Wall at 5.11a. Pitch 1 - the first pitch of League of Doom (5.10a R/X); Pitch 2 - the crux pitch of Nuclear Combat (5.11a); Pitch 3 - Nuclear Balls (5.10a); Pitch 4 - Spaceballs (5.11a) or Fantastic Voyage's 3rd pitch (5.8). With the exception of the runout first pitch of League, this entire four-pitch linkup has great protection. All of the pitches are of excellent quality.
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