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Nubbins to Nowhere 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Steve Carruthers, Dana Houser: 1983
Page Views: 2,214
Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on Aug 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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fun dihedral

  • Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This climb starts at the top of pitch 1 of pentapitch(or other variation you choose). Traverse right towards sasquatch on the big blocky ledges and halfway between the big tree of pentapitch and the big tree of sasquatch is a finger crack that takes you straight up. Hit a bolt, then traverse right over to the dihedral that is just left of sasquatch. Follow this up to the huge tier atop pentapitch 2.

    Gear: Standard LCC rack with 70m rope or 2 60m ropes. Rap down sasquatch.

    Photos of Nubbins to Nowhere Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: from halfway point
    from halfway point

    Comments on Nubbins to Nowhere Add Comment
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    By mikewhite
    Oct 11, 2007

    Sweet route.
    Everyone should do it.
    Bolts replaced years ago by the asca.
    By Landon McBrayer
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jul 6, 2011

    Very cool climb. Finger crack to slab to lieback corner. Also, the easiest 10d I've ever climbed.
    By Pete Spri
    Sep 8, 2011
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Fun route, suprised that it doesn't see more traffic.

    Crack up to 1 bold, step right on a delicate move (crux) to a decent lip, then reach high or make an intermediate move to get some pro in. Easy from there on out.

    Easier 10 for sure.
    By johnny utah
    From: Salt Lake City
    May 15, 2012
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

    Great route on the nose of the lower wall. Stellar climb in a stellar spot! Wandering out to the final bolt of Nubbins Direct after the layback section can set up some better visuals of the follower from a belay up top, will reduce some drag too.

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