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Routes in North Peak - East Face
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Bandito T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bear's Delight T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Christopher Robin T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Desperado T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Desperado Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Exposition T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Finger Stinger, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Great Impostor T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gunsight To North Peak T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Heat Lichening T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heffalump Trap Direct T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Helter Skelter T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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I Dream of Gina T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lichen or Leave It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lichening Bolt T,S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Nubbin Drubbin S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oh Pooh T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Promiscuity T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Psychoprophylaxis T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Question Mark T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Really Flaky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Roux T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Rox Salt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sally's Peril T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Some Things Never Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Streptococcus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unlimited Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Unrelenting Verticality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wolery T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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You, Me, and the Buzzard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Sandy Fleming |
| Page Views: | 1,411 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Andy Weinmann on Jun 23, 2017 |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
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Description
Nice addition to the area. Not a 5.9 as it's called in the new guide.
From the anchor at the top of Rox Salt, step out left and traverse about 10 ft onto the ledge and head up towards the first bolt. A couple of unprotected 5.6-ish moves gets you to the bolt. Careful of the hollow flake. Follow the line of bolts. Gear placement possible between bolts 2-3...#2 cam or a medium size hex (BD #8/9) should drop in there.
Two noticeable cruxes-between bolt 1-2 and further up near the top by bolt 4-5. Two bolt anchor with rap rings at the top. First one involves a hard sidepull with thin feet...gotta get the sequence right. The second is on small crimps.
You can rig a TR on this by climbing Really Flaky or most of Roux. Rock quality is mostly good throughout. You could probably escape the upper crux by moving further right to the sketchy large flakes of Really Flaky or to the left and easier holds on the blunt arete/corner.
From the anchor at the top of Rox Salt, step out left and traverse about 10 ft onto the ledge and head up towards the first bolt. A couple of unprotected 5.6-ish moves gets you to the bolt. Careful of the hollow flake. Follow the line of bolts. Gear placement possible between bolts 2-3...#2 cam or a medium size hex (BD #8/9) should drop in there.
Two noticeable cruxes-between bolt 1-2 and further up near the top by bolt 4-5. Two bolt anchor with rap rings at the top. First one involves a hard sidepull with thin feet...gotta get the sequence right. The second is on small crimps.
You can rig a TR on this by climbing Really Flaky or most of Roux. Rock quality is mostly good throughout. You could probably escape the upper crux by moving further right to the sketchy large flakes of Really Flaky or to the left and easier holds on the blunt arete/corner.
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