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Tailgate Party Wall
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N.T.B. 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 4/12, Pell/Reed
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 20
Submitted By: Mark Pell on Sep 15, 2012

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Description 

Medium or long sling recommended on bolt 1 to avoid rope drag higher up. 10d/11a crux passing bolts 2 and 3, turning the lip of the roof and pulling onto the face above. Reachy with technical footwork. Stay right of bolt 3 and look for the horizontal finger slot right of the vertical seam. Stand up to classic layback at bolt 4 and then follow square holds on easier rock to the anchor.

Location 

N.T.B. is just left of Tailgate Party, on the front or river side of the arete at the right end of the wall. Start just left of the small oak tree next to the trail. Climb onto the dusty ledge below an overhang with large holes and clip bolt 1. Turn the roof and climb the face above staying slightly right of the bolts and left of the arete.

Protection 

Four protection bolts to equalized two-bolt rap/lower/toprope anchor.


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