|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||E.C. Joe, Barry Fowlie, Bill McConachie May 1986|
|Season:||When the road is open|
|Submitted By:||limpingcrab on Jan 3, 2014|
|Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Nowhere To Run||Add Comment|
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By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Apr 27, 2016
Top rap anchors have been replaced. Take some cord for the rest of the raps. Not sure if the last pitch could be rapped with a 70m..
To find it. Park near the stables (was told we can't park at the stables) and hike to the buttress. Once you get to the toe, head up and left just a bit and then cut back right and scramble up to the dirty first pitch. 10-15 min
On the confusing 4th pitch, it's obvious off the belay but it gets... confusing and/or steep and chossy
No need for 6 x #1's and whatever else the guide recommends. Doubles to #2 is fine. 1 extra .75 and #1 will be nice though (so 3X on those). Singles #3,4,5,6 was nice but not totally necessary. Placed them mostly because I had 'em. If anything, bring a 6 for the 3rd pitch.
Good route, but a little chossy down low. Crux pitch is awesome. First half of it reminded me of New Dimensions. Then it turns into a beautiful fingers/off-fingers splitter. Last pitch is cherry on top, sweetness.