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Nowhere Man 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: P Foster
Page Views: 218
Submitted By: BrianWS on Oct 29, 2013

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Description 

Technical climbing on mostly good holds. Pass a unique basketball-sized feature and gain the large horizontal below a small overhang (5.11). Pull the lip -careful, the large sculpted feature here moves- and continue through the crux on thin holds, passing two more bolts to the top.

An easier variation, Man of Nowhere (5.11-) climbs the first three bolts then trends left to join the neighboring route (V-Groove, 5.10-), bypassing the crux.

Location 

The second bolt line on the south face of Disco buttress. Belay from atop the large boulder with a single bolt for anchoring the belay.

Protection 

316 steel (2006)
Easy climbing to the very low first bolt, but the fall here is quite large -- there is a ~15 foot chasm between the starting boulder and face.


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By BrianWS
Nov 8, 2013

RP with Kaiven and/or Bala, 200 or 2010. Technical and steep. The large horizontal mid-route provides relief and recovery for the thin crux, or it breaks the flow of otherwise sustained climbing. Perspectives may vary!

The Man of Nowhere variation is a fun linkup.

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