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Snowshed Wall
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Nova Express 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 8,983
Submitted By: Blitzo on Nov 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (140)
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Trying to pro up the last steep and wide crux of N...

Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>


This is the beautiful jamcrack in the center of the East Face.


Pro to 4".

Photos of Nova Express Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful east face of Snowshed.
The beautiful east face of Snowshed.
Rock Climbing Photo: Below the crux on Nova Express. Shot by Simon Moor...
Below the crux on Nova Express. Shot by Simon Moor...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt showing us the comfy belay spot at Nova Expre...
Matt showing us the comfy belay spot at Nova Expre...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bravo entering the large hands section
Bravo entering the large hands section
Rock Climbing Photo: Laine nearing the top of N.E.
Laine nearing the top of N.E.
Rock Climbing Photo: Meg starting up Nova Express
Meg starting up Nova Express

Comments on Nova Express Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 24, 2017
By 426
Mar 6, 2007

Be careful protecting the bottom. The flakes are loose. This pitch has cratered several people with broken legs and maybe even a fatality.

5.9+ for sure. Not for the fledgling 9 all.

I'd take a few larger pieces as well.
By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 24, 2008

I agree that this is a stout 5.9! While it does protect very well, care must be taken to place gear so that it doesn't get in your way. There is a distinct crux about halfway up, although the whole climb is fairly strenuous.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 15, 2008

Great climb, some grainy rock. The cupped hand jams through the crux will chew you up if you're not careful.
By Joe Dawson
May 12, 2009

Don't let the previous comments scare you off from doing this route. The bottom part of the climb before you get in the crack is perfectly protectable. I think I put a #4 Camalot in as my first or second piece pretty close to the bottom. After that, the largest piece you will need is a #3 Camalot.

The crack is splitter and takes good pro. This is a must do for all crack lovers.
By LifeIsGood
From: Reno, NV
May 15, 2010

I followed this one - great climb to practice crack moves. There's nothing like a solid hand jam!
By Nut Stac
From: Reno, NV
Jul 5, 2010

New to crack climbing. Tried to put this up yesterday, very very stout. Awesome climb though, tons of fun. But like was said before me, not for the fledgling crack leader (such as I).
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great climb, nothing harder than 5.9, but a bit tricky through the crux. I was able to use hand jams through the upper wide section. Wide gear can be placed at the bottom and at the top, but isn't necessary.
By coreylee
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 12, 2011

Really fun climb! Did farewell to arms just before and found this climb to be a bit harder.
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 13, 2011

You see, Corey, the Nova/Farewell gauge of difficulty is order dependent. If you do Nova first, Farewell will feel harder...and vice versa. ;)
By Tyson Waldron
From: Reno, NV
Sep 23, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Classic. I think this is a more challenging lead than Black September. (I used to think the reverse, incorrectly.) The whole east face area of Snowshed is superb, and this climb dominates the center of the main face there. It Begs to be climbed.

I highly recommend a variation (I only tr'd this way) that starts farther right (I guess this would be the the start to Welcome to my Nightmare?) and traverses a left slanting crack system which almost meets nova about 25-30 feet up. Super excellent movement, and not too hard up to that point.
By tahoemnts Schroeder
From: Truckee, California
Aug 24, 2017

PM me if you pulled a .75 BD just above the shelf. Buddy jammed it in too far and we had to run for family event. Thanks.

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