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Notorious B.E.G., The 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Marty Lewis, Kevin Calder, 8/2004
Season: all but maybe winter
Page Views: 1,029
Submitted By: slim on Jul 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (40)
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Jeff Gicklhorn climbing Notorious B.E.G.


This fine route climbs great moderate terrain through several right leaning diagonal seams, progressively getting more difficult. One of those jacked up 'stand up' moves that give me trouble is just the start of the business. From this point the route is in your face until nearly the end, with tricky, technical, thin climbing that requires the climber to look around and think ahead. A brilliant route that seemed significantly harder for the grade than many of the routes in the area.


This route is immediately left of 'Coven'. Looking at the central plate of the Mustache Wall, this route is 2 bolted routes to the left of the big gnarly chimney.


6 bolts and mussy hooks.

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By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
Jul 25, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Good footwork a must at the crux or it will seem harder than 11c. Very hard undercling variation to the right at the top. Kind of an exercise climb, if it were longer it would be classic.
By Short Fall Sean
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 21, 2015

Another great mustache wall route. Maybe the shortest route on the wall, but it makes up for it with a tough, tricky crux. The climbing below that is probably 5.10, but is somewhat awkward with a few commiting moves. There's a good rest before the crux, which involves a hard-to-see right hand and a blatant lack of a left foot where there really should have been a left foot.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Oct 24, 2016

Crux felt really height dependent for me. I'm right around 5'6. Sadly I had to cheat my way up to pass the crux
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 24, 2017

A challenging crux, and would be a great route elsewhere. But relative to the other longer and more interesting 5.11s on the wall, I'd skip this one if you're short on time.

Seems like it's about equally hard to do the straight-up "mantle crux" as it is to traverse out of it a bit low and left and then head back and right. Both ways are rather thin.

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