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The Noir Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A.C.L. 
Crack Problem, The 
Not Without Hope  
Shake Junt 
Stone Cold Stunner 
Warmup , The 
Way of the Samurai 

Not Without Hope  

Hueco: V11 Font: 8A

   
Type:  Boulder, 30'
Original:  Hueco: V11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Pablo Hammack
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 182
Submitted By: Pablo Hammack on Aug 20, 2016

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Description 

Starts on the huge undercling on the left side of the boulder and traverses right into the starting pockets of A.C.L. then tops out straight up. I was falling day after day on the last two hard moves but it eventually happened. Very brutal climb so go get it done and tell me whatcha think!

Location 

Starts on a big undercling on left side of the boulder and finishes into A.C.L.

Protection 

Pads


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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Aug 22, 2016

Nicely done, Pablo. Bernd and I fell a bunch on that last move. In fact, Bernd sustained a shoulder-wrenching injury falling off the move to the sloper, and he almost had to get surgery! Bernd thought ACL was closer to V8 or V9, and you do get a rest on the traverse before ACL, so his (and my) best guess was V10. But we never sent, so we can't talk. For sure one of the harder traverses around.

Have you done the other hard traverse on this boulder? Or did you do all the Skofield traverses yet? Those might help you calibrate grades.
By Pablo Hammack
Aug 24, 2016

A.C.L doesn't feel any easier to other 10's I've done in the past especially adding a couple v6 moves before it. Over the weekend I also sent So I Did It and Way of the Samurai which I thought were both solid 9's. Not Without Hope felt way harder then these two by far. In Bishop there are two v10 traverses (Low Rider and Action Jackson) that I did this winter and they both seemed easier then Not Without Hope. These were my best comparison for grading since there both linkups similar to the one on Noir. Once it gets another ascent it can be narrowed down but I'm certain on the 11 grade.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Aug 25, 2016

Nice. That was scholarly argued, Pablo. What did you think of So I Did It? That press move out left? Awesome.

I agree about the ratings for Way of the Samurai and So I Did It. I should also note that even though Bernd thought ACL was very soft if it was a 10, I happened to think it WAS super hard. Different styles abound.
By Pablo Hammack
Aug 25, 2016

I did a bunch of heel and toe hooks to get over to the start of the 3. I'll have a video up probably today. One of my all time favorites in SB.
By Pablo Hammack
Aug 28, 2016

By Tim King
Aug 30, 2016

Nice work Pablo! Looks like I gotta bust out the kneepad... YeeeehaaaW!