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Not The Wheat 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Brian Ketron, Tai Devore and Trevor Hobbs
Page Views: 775
Submitted By: Vlad S on May 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

One of the best routes on the wall in terms of richness of movement and deserves a lot more traffic than it gets. There is almost no patina on this side of the wall and the climbing is on flakes and in between cracks and seams on grey rock. There is probably no single move harder than 11c, but except for a short section in the middle it feels like you are at the crux almost for the whole duration of the route. The bolts are all very close together, so it's very well protected.

Location 

Starts left of Remington Electric a tier below the routes in the middle of Mustache wall. It is easily identifiable by 4 closely-spaced bolts in grey rock (no patina) going straight up to a small roof with a jug/flake in it.

Protection 

14 bolts to a two-bolt mussy hook anchor. 60 m rope will get you down.


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By Short Fall Sean
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 5, 2015

Cool route, definitely a rich variety of movement and the undercling traverse section is really neat.

However, I disagree with the description that there is no move harder than 11c but the route is sustained. While it was a fairly sustained route (and burlier than most mustache wall routes), I found there to be a truly standout crux around the tenth bolt where you're moving left and up into a wide, flaring crack. I did all the other moves on the first try, but that section totally shut me down. Made me wonder if maybe a hold had broken in there, especially since the rock was still cleaning up in that section.
By Choncho
Jul 18, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Love this route. Best on the wall.
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 24, 2017

Best 11d on the wall. Sustained and memorable!

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