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Not So Sweet 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Vernon Phinney, Mike Lewis, 1987 ground up
Page Views: 290
Submitted By: Mark Orsag on Jul 10, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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A bit of an awkward adventure climb, and it should be approached in that spirit. Steep climbing up a monster flake begins this interesting,varied, and physical route. There is a middle transition section with some funky body positions (I remember ending up riding a big cylinder shaped ledge in a manner reminiscent of the movie Dr Strangelove). The route ended with a weird slightly overhanging face section (crux) where your body was half in and half and out of a chimney. A big bonus for the effort involved is a gorgeous summit with a great view of the surrounding South Seas formations. Not a ton of non-wide gear and placing and cleaning what was there was somewhat challenging. The Burr and Busse guide rates this route 5.6. That seems, at least by current notions, severely sandbagged. Both the very strong crack climber that I followed up this and myself ( a gym and outdoor sport climber who doesn't like cracks all that much), thought a grade in the 5.8 range was appropriate. We'll see what other people think.


Up the 4th class gully from the W.This goes up over (from behind it) Nutra Sweet (5.11). Nutra Sweet is effectively the rap line for Not So Sweet. Single rope rap to the ground.


Gear, 0.75 to #5, nuts (the recent guide book says only to #3 but your "adventure factor" will be greater w/o some big gear in the #4-#5 range)

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By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Jul 10, 2015

Not 5.6. I backed down on this climb for not having any big gear. It was really awkward and seemed really committing without some big cams.
By Mark Orsag
From: Omaha, NE
Jul 10, 2015

WOD, curious as to what you would rate it?
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Jul 11, 2015

Dunno. i didn't have any big gear, which is what i needed to feel safe. i backed down and never finished the route.
By Jeff Moon
From: Rapid City, SD
Nov 12, 2015

Its a tad run-out if you don't have anything bigger than a #3. I had a few moments of thinking "this is 5.6?" I'd say 5.8 is appropriate.

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