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Unsorted Routes:

Not So Easy Arch 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Steve Grossman, Rich Thompson '74
Season: spring seasonal closures
Page Views: 2,732
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Jill shortly before the hail storm.

Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>


  • ** this route starts 1 pitch up the wall above Main Gate and Charadras etc.

The main feature is a right angling arch/roof 220' off the ground, just down and left from Voodoo Child's crux pitch.

P1) From the ledge system at 120' (belay for Main Gate ,Charadras) follow a chickenheads left of 45' crack system above the ledge. Traverse right (across the crack) when comfortable and up more heads to the base of the arch. Climb the arch (many good stoppers etc) to its end to belay on chickenheads (and a 1" TCU in roof). (150', 5.5)
P2) Climb the steep section above belay then trend left (tying off c-heads) to an vertical area of heads and run rope to its end. Belay on chickenheads. (160-180', easy 5th).
P3) finish off to summit (<100', 4th class)

Combined with Charadras this is a fine easy summit route to get up Rap Rock.


Left of Black Quacker, the arch/roof feature is obvious


Stoppers and camming units to 3". Shoulder length runners for chickenheads.

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By adrian korosec
From: tucson,az
Oct 29, 2010

Great climb with perfect protection.
By Nick Henscheid
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 1, 2017
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Just about as good as (ye olde school) 5.5 gets! Looks like it should be a 5.9 from below, but it just climbs and protects like a dream. Watch for rope drag over the roof and make sure you're trained up on slinging/belaying from chickenheads. Note: while this pitch and the chickenhead highway above is well-protected and very moderate, the approach pitch options (Charadras etc) are much more heads up leads. So sadly you should be a solid 5.8/5.9 gear leader before getting on this gem.

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