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Not My Fault 

WI2-3 M3

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 230'
Original: WI2-3 M3 [details]
FA: FRA T. Phillips, L. Douglas 01/08
New Route: Yes
Season: Fat winters
Page Views: 769
Submitted By: Luke Douglas on Feb 6, 2008

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1. Climb low angle thin ice over a couple bulges, aim for the chimney with the dagger growing out of it and belay at the base. W2/3-150+

P2. Climb up the back of the chimney using what works for progress. Clip a fixed KB at the "apex" of the chimney. Keep groping for the best pick placement over the lip (mine happened to be a clump of moss). Swing out to the right and bash in a killer L.A. from a good stance. A few more drytooling moves bring you to a low angle snow ramp, climb this for about 10 ft. Keep an eye out for the bolted rap station on the right under a mini roof of sorts. M3 60 ft.

Location 

This route lies on the quartzite/granite fault to the west of Scruffy proper. Your right tool will be on quartzite and your left will be on granite at times, pretty cool. Find a steep snow gulley leading to the base and posthole up this. At the top of the gulley go to the west about 100 ft.

Protection 

11cm screws and a few longer ones. (2) K.B.'s thin (1) L.A. medium. A light rack up to #3 camalot. A 70 meter rope will bring you back down with one rap.


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