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Not in Kansas 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 348
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Dec 11, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Not in Kansas follows the line between light and s...

Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The rock is good and clean, and the angle not particularly steep, but it's water-washed some, with interesting features and sustained enough climbing.

The route goes up the old rap line. From the top of the trail scramble right and up until you reach the bottom of a prominent left-facing corner. In the image it shows as the boundary between light and dark.

Pitch 1 (about 120 ft). Start from directly below the steep rock to give the belayer some protection of a minimal overhang. Stay basically in the corner. There are some features, a small roof to turn on the left, a high step which can be avoided by going even farther left, etc. but you always return to the corner. A short distance up you will pass a set of really old bolts. There may be some water seepage if it rained recently, but otherwise the rock should be good with protection in the corner, some of it with larger gear. A bolted belay is located on a ledge to the left.

Pitch 2, original version (about 70 ft). Continue up the corner and make a right at the second prickly pear cactus and head for a cluster of yucca plants. A short climb to the right past those will take you to the top of the original rap line. Bolts are old but serviceable. Two sixty meter ropes will take you to the start of the route. With a 70m rope this version of the route can be done in a single pitch.

Pitch 2, bailout version (about 60 ft). It is possible to turn right sooner then at the second cactus. This can be done as soon as there appears to be a second large left-facing corner on the right, but that version of the route deteriorates almost immediately into easy (and dirty) gully scramble.

Pitch 2, new and preferred version (about 120 ft). From the bolts on top of Pitch 1 head up onto the bulge above them, protect, then follow the bulge left into the next left-facing corner. Take this corner up and when it starts changing direction toward the right, continue on up over a small roof and to the bottom of a large roof with green lichen on it. Go left under the roof to a break, then up the break far enough to set up a belay in the rocks there.

There is a rap station, a one, short distance to the right of this location. You will need to go at a bit of aslant toward east to reach the bolts you just left and then do a second rappel from there. Or you can ignore the new stations and instead scramble along the top of the formation (with some fairly steep down climbing toward the end) to the old rap station.

Location 

Not in Kansas reverses the rap route from the Lambda Wall. It goes up the steep, narrow gully between the two prominent sections of the wall. To get there the end of the trail get on the rock and traverse right some before scrambling up into a large scooped out area. You may want to rope up for the scramble the first time you do it, but you will be down-climbing it unroped as a deproach after rapping down.

Protection 

Standard rack. Two bolted belays (rap stations) with chains, each equipped with one modern bolt and one old one.


Photos of Not in Kansas Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the route. Photo Marc Tarnosky.
BETA PHOTO: Start of the route. Photo Marc Tarnosky.

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By Karl Kiser
Dec 12, 2013

The Southwestern Mountaineers climbed the line in the 1970s. It was simply called the Lambda Wall rap route. Not in Kansas sounds better. I wouldn't rate it harder than Yellow Brick Road or Wizard of Ooze.
By Marc William
From: El Paso, TX
Dec 12, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Quality route with some fun moves. As Marta says, you have the option to go further right about 2/3 of the way up and head back toward the large left-facing corner, but staying left is protectable and provides a more sustained (and enjoyable) climb.
By Ian Harris
From: Las Cruces NM
Jan 7, 2015

Climbed this today with Marta and found an excellent variation.

Climb the first pitch as normal. Belay at the two (shiny and new) bolts with chains and rap rings. There will be a ledge with a bush on your left. From here, there are two options: head left around the bush and onto the ledge, then go up, or traverse left over the bush. You'll end up on a sloping ramp either way. Leave this ramp and go directly up following a dihedral with small bushes in it.

You will end up on another small ledge. From here keep going directly up past a short slab section with a small roof above it. Once past this, the dihedral continues into a larger roof. You will need to exit this dihedral before it turns into the roof. Exit left to a large flake that will accept a #3 cam. Head up and then follow the roof left to its exit around a corner.

There are some options for belay: continue higher and belay off a boulder or pinch, or trend right after the roof exit and find another bolted belay/rap station. I don't know if this has been climbed before, but it probably has. I would say it is about 5.7+ with decent gear.

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