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The Sentinel - West Face
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L to R R to L Alpha
Butt Buttress, The S 
Centipede, The T 
Chameleon, The T 
Desert Song T 
Flared Bear T 
Great White Buffalo T 
Illusion Dweller T 
Not for Loan T 
Rubberfat Syndrome, The TR 
Some Like It Hot T 
Where Eagles Dare T 
Where Janitors Dare T 
Worms in Your Brain T 

Not for Loan 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Morgan and Tony Zeek, 1975. FFA: Gib Lewis, Charles Cole, December 1979
Page Views: 167
Submitted By: Tyler Logan on Apr 16, 2006

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Not for loan


Scramble up a ramp just right of the start of "Where Eagles Dare" until you reach a crack system beginning over a roof. The rock is a little chossy here but greatly improves once you pull over the roof and start angling up the crack. After about twenty-five feet of crack climbing comparable in steepness and difficulty to that on "Illusion Dweller," you reach a 'V' in the crack system. The original line takes the right crack and makes a long traverse to the same belay as for "Desert Song." Another option is to take the left crack straight up to a ledge, traverse right about six feet to a bolt, and make one or two face moves (.10a) in order to reach a set of anchors on "Where Eagles Dare."

A decent alternative to "Illusion Dweller" if that route is busy.


On the West Face of The Sentinel, right of "Where Eagles Dare." Rappel to descend.


nuts and cams to 2.5"

Probably a good idea to equalize a "nest" of gear before pulling over the roof as the rock isn't great here and it's a ways to the ground.

Photos of Not for Loan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Not for loan going to the "where eagles dare&...
BETA PHOTO: Not for loan going to the "where eagles dare&...
Rock Climbing Photo: Not for loan
Not for loan
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyler Logan on "Not for Loan" (.10b). Ph...
Tyler Logan on "Not for Loan" (.10b). Ph...

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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 23, 2007

Randy, is this FA info correct? I thought this was a Charles Cole route.
By Russ Walling
Feb 24, 2007

Did this one today, 2/24/07, and man... it is sort of a junker, but in a good way. The rock is loose, grainy, and the features are not very inspiring.... but I liked it. Heading up to the Where Eagles Dare anchors is the way to go... clip two very sketch 1/4" bolts as you move up and right... then do a short boulder problem on the face to gain another crappy bolt.... then clip the fresh anchor. You can rap from here with a 50m rope.
By Randy
Feb 24, 2007

Morgan and Zeek did the FA (with aid -- those guys never did things free); Gib Lewis and CC3 did the FFA, 12/79.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 25, 2007

Thanks Randy, I was just about to email Charles when I saw your reply. I always figured it was a CCIII route because of the name "not for loan" which he would mark on his gear. Russ & I did the route today, it's been on my list for some time. Now it's off the list and unlikely I"ll go back. It's not that it's technically hard -just junk.

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