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Up Among the Firs
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A Little Testis T 
Chokin' A Grogan S 
Collet a Day T,S 
Nose, The S 
Nostalgia Aint What it Used to be T,S 
Poster Boy T,S 
Road Rash T,S 
Toasted Testa Rossa T 
Totally Clips S 
Usual Panic S 
Wicker Cranium T 
Zazert T 
Zeasi T,S 

Nostalgia Aint What it Used to be 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 12'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Glenn Payan and Jeff Thomson 1996
Season: spring summer fall
Page Views: 83
Submitted By: Marilyn Geninatti on Sep 2, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

enjoyable little pockets to a finger crack

Location 

just right of Zaesi, shares anchors with Chokin' a Grogin

Protection 

two bolts plus gear to two inches


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By Mark van Eijk
Sep 2, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

An adventurous lead at the grade! Don't bother looking for the anchor bolts at the base listed in the select book, either they have been removed or were never there. If climbing straight up from the fallen trees you can place a piece or two at the horizontal cracks half way to the first bolt. Even better, traverse in from the large jugs on the left, placing a piece on the way. Don't get too excited about the finger crack at the top, it is flaring for the first few feet until it straightens out and will accept a #1 mastercam. Not really dangerous, but definitely a heady lead, worth a try, especially if you're toproping it.