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Shadow Buttress
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Absorption T 
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Made in the Shade S 
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Nose Shadow  

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 300', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: J. Garrett 1996 FFA P2: K. Csizmazia, 1997 P3: C. Harmston, 1997 P4: T. Kemple, 2007
Page Views: 1,507
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Apr 2, 2013

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Holy Steepness on p2


A rad outing, up a proud feature. Be prepared for a plethora of climbing terrain and some memorable pitches on quality stone.

P1- Start up the right side of the middle of the Shadow Buttress. You will see bolts beginning about 15 off the deck, leading up a nice slab towards the huge grey roof above. 13 bolts to a nice anchor, 5.11 - techy, thin. ~100 feet

P2- A wild, exposed and pumpy pitch out the grey overhang. You will want either long slings or to skip some of the 19 bolts to avoid crippling rope drag. Super steep, super juggy for the most part. Book claims .12c, could be as easy as .12a (?) depending on your height and climbing preference. Airy!

P3- A hard boulder problem through a bulging crack system begins shortly after leaving the belay. Punchy crux to a wandering slab and finish with an easy wide crack to a mellow belay stance and a 3 bolt anchor. ~80 feet, .12c. ~7 bolts

P4- Wander up towards the final bulge on easy terrain. Boulder out the streaked bulge via a big move or two and some thin edges. A true boulder problem (probably honest v4 or so), to easier terrain. Another thin boulder (v2?) guards the top and a 2 bolt anchor! .12c, ~60 feet. ~7 bolts

Such a rad route! nice work! The first two pitches are well traveled but the last 2 are not. Many people rap after the first 2 pitches but it's worth the extra time to finish.

Walk off to the climbers right. Drink beer and toast to your success.


On the right side of the Shadow Buttress, left of the huge crack system on Absorption 5.9.


15 QD's will do. Long slings or draws are very useful.

Photos of Nose Shadow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nose Shadow ascends the right side of the protrudi...
Nose Shadow ascends the right side of the protrudi...

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By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Feb 18, 2014

Absolutely amazing climb! A must do at Ibex.
By noah gostout
From: Iqaluit, Nunavut
Nov 30, 2014

The 2 bolt anchor at the very top of this gem could use a replacement if anyone is bringing a drill up. The existing ones are very rusty and dated.
By karl kvashay
From: cedar city, utah
Oct 26, 2015

This route is amazing!. I got super pumped and was happy to have a .5 camalot to cheat through a move on the steepest part of p2. Gotta be my fav sport climb in Utah. Do any other routes come to mind that compare in terms of length and quality? Classic!!
By Branden Michelkamp
From: Salt Lake City
May 9, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Super fun route, in your face through the entire overhang, more than expected! I would suggest extending the last draw before the last really steep roof then back clean the draw that's above the roof (crux section) I had an incredible amount of rope drag to deal with which ultimately made us decide to bail at the top of p2. We wanted to do the whole thing, still an incredible route even the first pitch is stupid fun!
By drock3
Apr 3, 2017

Got blown off the route by 50 mph winds after P2. I dont know who would think it goes at 12a. Felt full on 12c to me. (edit: "posted by Jonathan Siegrist" oh, got it :P)

4 start climbing up to that point. Be back soon for the full send.

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