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Nose in a Day 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Brian Shelton & Stewart Green
Page Views: 5,143
Submitted By: Anna Moore on Jun 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (72)
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BETA PHOTO: Locker at the anchors on the little roof at the en...

Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>


The 1st two bolts are the same as Billy's Ghost Dance. Once you get past the second bolt, there's a lot of loose rock. It also breaks off pretty easily, so be super gentle on it. After the third bolt, there's a smooth section that goes to the face you have to climb up and over to get to the anchors. The place to stand at the top is really small. We had a tough time having two people up there and still being able to maneuver.


The route starts the same as Billy's Ghost Dance but instead of continuing straight after the first 2 bolts you head up to the right to the left of the small, pine tree.


This is 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The right anchor was loose, the bolt hanger spun a bit but was still secure, the bolt did not move out of the rock at all just moved around. Suggest you just keep a close eye on it.

Photos of Nose in a Day Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 11 y.o. Gabby takes on the roof at the end of her ...
11 y.o. Gabby takes on the roof at the end of her ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nose in a Day.
Nose in a Day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gabby climbing the Nose in a Day.  Photo by Steve.
Gabby climbing the Nose in a Day. Photo by Steve.

Comments on Nose in a Day Add Comment
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By Jim Gloeckler
From: Denver, Colo.
Mar 17, 2010

High first bolt, but easy climbing to get to it. Overall a good route, but I think it felt more like 5.5 than 5.6. Just fun! Anchors seemed fine to me.
By Stewart M. Green
Apr 29, 2010

If you notice in the past few printings of the Red Rock Canyon climbing guide, I did drop the rating on Nose in a Day to 5.5.
By Matt Payne
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 5, 2010

Very fun beginner route!
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 24, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Fantastic route for the grade. A little of everything and love the roof to finish!
By Cody Cook
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2013

And a great route name to go with it. Thanks for everything, Billy. A true climbing legend.
By Patrick Yarbrough
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 14, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

This route is basically worth doing because of the last roof move. Pretty exposed for a route of this grade.
By Cody E
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 14, 2014

Beginner climber here, I like this route a lot. Climbed it once on TR, my second time I got to clean it. It's fun, and the roof is a good, awkward challenge for a noob like me. Great views from atop. Practiced cleaning the TR anchor here today, the rings are pretty badly worn and have some gnarly wearing/grooves worn into them.
By tiffany
From: Colorado springs, CO
Oct 10, 2015

Fun route. This was our second climb in this area. Billy's Ghost Dance climb felt a bit more challenging because of the smooth slab section. This climb is worth doing, & the roof move is fun. The rap rings are definitely worn and have some edges. Good beginner climb with a fantastic view at the top!
By Brandon Bell
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 14, 2016
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Fun, easy lead. Very comfortable, airy belay perch at the top. Good spot to watch the climbers on the Whale and to get gawked at by small children.

The rap rings showed heavy wear. The grooves, while smooth, were almost halfway through, probably due to extensive top-roping through the rap rings. All the other bolts and hangers were in good shape and well placed to protect the route.

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