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Nose Area

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Dum Dee Dum Dum T 
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Nose Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 35.30474, -82.79538 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 25,386
Administrators: Ryan Williams, ShockSLL, Aaron Parlier, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Aug 22, 2009
Forecast:
Tonight

20°
Sunday

43° | 38°
Monday

54° | 39°
Tuesday

54° | 38°
Wednesday

51° | 28°
Thursday

40° | 24°
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Description 

Home of some of the earliest routes established at Looking Glass, the Nose Area is a popular destination because of its namesake route. In addition to the Nose, there are a number of great moderates here, any of which will give you lots of climbing mileage and great exposure.

Getting There 

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road for about two miles, passing the Slickrock Falls trailhead, and park in a small lot with a kiosk; this is the Sun Wall trailhead. Hike up the trail about a half-mile to end at the base of Sundial Crack. The Nose is a short distance to the left on the cliffline trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.7 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Nose Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Nose Area:
Sundial Crack   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 430'   
The Nose   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Peregrine   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Sensemilia Sunset   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 465'   
Hyperbola   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, 4 pitches, 550'   
Dum Dee Dum Dum   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 230'   
Hyperbola Direct Start   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Southern Crescent   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 350'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Nose Area

Featured Route For Nose Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Moonrise on Sundial.  Photo by Michael K.

Sundial Crack 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c  NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area
Although it's not a long sustained splitter crack, this is a really nice route, especially if the Nose is occupied. The crack actually runs for only ~20 ft on the 3rd pitch and is flaring, but protectable. The Lambert/Shull guide rates it 5.8, but I thought it was really mellow for the grade.This description is meant to supplement the Lambert/Shull book. Ratings are from the book.Start: Pretty much where the approach trail meets the rock. Relatively short approach.P1: 5.5 80' Climb up a...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Nose Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: first pitch 2
first pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: James at the belay point first pitch
James at the belay point first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: climbing first pitch of the nose
climbing first pitch of the nose
Rock Climbing Photo: view from the "parking lot", top of pitc...
view from the "parking lot", top of pitc...

Comments on Nose Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jasoncollins
Aug 1, 2016
I lost a Casio Pathfinder Watch (green/black) at the base of the Nose tuesday the 26th july. Please message me if you happened upon it…as I have been late to work twice since I lost it. Thank you
By Spinkmo
Sep 8, 2016
Not to turn this comment section into a lost and found forum but if you happen upon a black car key (no key chains) at the base of the nose or parking lost please DM me or email spencereh@comcast.net. Preesh