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Mt. Haeckel
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Northwest Ridge T 

Northwest Ridge 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 800', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Jack Riegelhuth - 1933
Season: Spring to Fall
Page Views: 650
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Aug 27, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Looking over to Haeckel

Description 

A steep and exposed scramble on good rock with a Class 4 section at the start of the route, before leveling off near the summit, after which it's superb and exposed Class 3 along a ridgeline.

Has a reputation for being a classic route, with good exposure and rock to a very small summit.

Location 

Approach from camp at Hungry Packer Lake, follow the broad ridge north of the lake, first through small trees then rock steps and boulders, and Alpine terrain to a prominent notch on the high col north of the peak, at about 12,700 feet. The route is the broken ridge right of the shallow gully which runs almost to the summit. Near the start of the climb the approach snow can be fairly steep ice in late season of a good snow year.

I did not go the the notch but started the route lower down where the shallow gully met the snow - seemed like an easier start and cut short the slogging.

Without the snow it's a monstrous talus slog - so early season is recommended.

Descent is by way of the South/East slope at Class 3 into the basin south east of the peak, stay high so as to pass over the low point of the long broad East Ridge and back to your approach route.

Protection 

Non required - heady solo. Or small diameter rope and a few nuts/slings. Crampons and Ice Axe seasonal.


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By GregC.
From: Reno, NV
Jul 16, 2016

Highly recommended route with great rock!
By Kayla Truong
From: Santa Ana, CA
Aug 15, 2016

From Echo Lake to the saddle between Wallace and Haeckel (approximately near 37.150359, -118.659026) the terrain is 3rd class rock scramble. From that saddle and ascending on the Northeast Arere of Haeckel is 4th and 5th class. Do-able, yes, but definitely harder. Friends and I did this approach only because we camped at Moonlight only to find the route from our approach was a little more than we bargained. Going behind Haeckel in order to even start the climb from Northwest looked steep and very loose. But if anyone wants to try it let us all know how it goes. :)
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at Mount Haeckel from east ridge.
Looking at Mount Haeckel from east ridge.
By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Aug 20, 2016

^^^^

From the Wallace - Haeckel col to the summit of Haeckel, the route is the South Ridge. South Ridge is mostly Class 2, with a couple of short Class 3 sections.

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