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Northwest Ridge T 
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Northwest Ridge 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Fulton, Spradley, Greenwell, Perkins, and Parsons, August '48
Season: Summer-Fall
Page Views: 2,022
Submitted By: Furthermore on Oct 14, 2012

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Justin Ibarra leading the last pitch of 5.4 just b...


Follow the Powell Peak Trail to the basin below Peak C and Powell. Leave the trail at ~11,500 and head for the Peak C-Powell saddle. Before reaching the lower saddle, head south around a gendarme to the upper/southern Peak C-Powell saddle. The first roped pitch, 5.2, starts up a small gully on the left/east side of the ridge. The first pitch is also right of a deep gully blocked by a chockstones. Climb ~50-70 feet up 5.2 on somewhat questionable rock to a ledge.

From the ledge, head right and climb a short class 4 chimney to another ledge. Traverse left/east on a ledge to the upper part of the deep chockstoned couloir. Climb on class 3 terrain for ~100-200 feet up the gully and look for a large headwall on the left.

Head towards the large headwall and climb to the base of the headwall on friction Class 4 slabs. From the base of the headwall, follow a dihedral up along the headwall. As the dihedral steepens, the climbing becomes 5.2 friction climbing until reaching another ledge.

Once on top of the friction pitches, climb straight up blocky class 4 terrain and finish the blocky terrain with a short 5.4 crux. After reaching a ledge after the 5.4 section, head left and follow the west ridge, class 3, to the summit.

Descend either the west ridge or west couloir which is located south of the summit.


A 30m or 50m rope and a small alpine rack with a limited selection of nuts.

Photos of Northwest Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peak C from the approach.
Peak C from the approach.
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Hansen belaying me as I lead exposed the head...
Greg Hansen belaying me as I lead exposed the head...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peak C on the descent couloir.
Peak C on the descent couloir.

Comments on Northwest Ridge Add Comment
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By Ryan Marsters
Aug 20, 2014

FA: Forrest Fulton, John Spradley, Dolores Greenwell, Nancy Perkins, and Ted Parsons, August 3, 1948, via Kramarsic's Mountaineering in the Gore Range.
By ScottC
Aug 23, 2016

Very cool climb in a gorgeous place. This climb is not trivial. I've solo'ed a fair amount of so-called 5.4 rock in the alpine, but I was glad to have a rope on this one. Also, if you can't find the 3rd class scramble to the top after the 5.4 crux [like me], be prepared for one more short, low 5th class pitch.
By Pat Gephart
From: Breckenridge, CO
Aug 11, 2017
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Awesome route in one of my favorite parts of the Gore. Justin Ibarra, Greg Hansen, and myself completed this route on 7/16/2017. The first 5.2 pitch in the description is loose and full of choss (go figure). We did not pitch this out and instead chose to solo it one at a time due to rockfall hazard. Pro is pretty scarce here as well. The rest of the route is excellent and much more solid. We brought a selection of cams and a set of nuts which were more than adequate. I think the crux was downclimbing CC Rider which was still full of snow. An ice axe was very helpful here.

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