||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]|
|FA: ||Fulton, Spradley, Greenwell, Perkins, and Parsons, August '48|
|Page Views: ||1,716|
|Submitted By: ||Furthermore on Oct 14, 2012|
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Peak C from the approach.
Follow the Powell Peak Trail to the basin below Peak C and Powell. Leave the trail at ~11,500 and head for the Peak C-Powell saddle. Before reaching the lower saddle, head south around a gendarme to the upper/southern Peak C-Powell saddle. The first roped pitch, 5.2, starts up a small gully on the left/east side of the ridge. The first pitch is also right of a deep gully blocked by a chockstones. Climb ~50-70 feet up 5.2 on somewhat questionable rock to a ledge.
From the ledge, head right and climb a short class 4 chimney to another ledge. Traverse left/east on a ledge to the upper part of the deep chockstoned couloir. Climb on class 3 terrain for ~100-200 feet up the gully and look for a large headwall on the left.
Head towards the large headwall and climb to the base of the headwall on friction Class 4 slabs. From the base of the headwall, follow a dihedral up along the headwall. As the dihedral steepens, the climbing becomes 5.2 friction climbing until reaching another ledge.
Once on top of the friction pitches, climb straight up blocky class 4 terrain and finish the blocky terrain with a short 5.4 crux. After reaching a ledge after the 5.4 section, head left and follow the west ridge, class 3, to the summit.
Descend either the west ridge or west couloir which is located south of the summit.
A 30m or 50m rope and a small alpine rack with a limited selection of nuts.
Peak C on the descent couloir.
By Ryan Marsters
Aug 20, 2014
FA: Forrest Fulton, John Spradley, Dolores Greenwell, Nancy Perkins, and Ted Parsons, August 3, 1948, via Kramarsic's Mountaineering in the Gore Range.
Aug 23, 2016
Very cool climb in a gorgeous place. This climb is not trivial. I've solo'ed a fair amount of so-called 5.4 rock in the alpine, but I was glad to have a rope on this one. Also, if you can't find the 3rd class scramble to the top after the 5.4 crux [like me], be prepared for one more short, low 5th class pitch.