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Mt. Helen
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Northwest Ridge of Tower 1 T 
Tower 1 Gully 
Tower Ridge T 

Northwest Ridge of Tower 1 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Hannibal, Turville, Wheeler 1974
Page Views: 622
Submitted By: C. Trimble on Aug 25, 2015

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Looking down one of the upper pitches. photo by Jo...


This beautiful route follows the prominent NW Ridge of Tower 1. The Kelsey Guide lists a grade of III 5.8 A1, but we were able to free climb at a somewhat moderate grade. The route starts just right of the bottom of NW Face Right Gully/Tower 1 gully, then continues right up the crest. The upper section is beautiful and exposed. We simul-climbed the lower-angled bottom half, then pitched out the crest. Very cool, should be climbed more! Nice for a shorter (but chilly) outing when the weather looks iffy for longer routes, or as a more difficult & interesting start to Tower Ridge.


Northwest Ridge of Tower 1. Descend by rapping/downclimbing the lower section of Tower Ridge.


standard rack

Photos of Northwest Ridge of Tower 1 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up at the NW ridge. photo by Jon Allen
looking up at the NW ridge. photo by Jon Allen

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By neil grimaldi
Aug 19, 2016

I would agree that this is a great route. Did it sometime in Aug 2014. We soloed a bit of the bottom part and then lead 6 long pitches, each of them ending on perfect belay ledges. The 5.10 crux was a difficult to protect boulder problem off one of the largest ledges. Other than that it was great 5.8. We descended the SW ridge with 2 double rope raps (prob not necessary) and then downclimbed. I think it would be a great day to link it into Helen's summit.

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