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NorthWest Ridge direct T 
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NorthWest Ridge direct 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2300'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
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Page Views: 41
Submitted By: kenr on Jun 7, 2017

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Lots of interesting climbing and navigation if try to stay close to the ridge crest and climb as many of the high point nubs (like ten of them?) along the way. What I mean by the "direct" NW Ridge.

Some people (likely correct) have said there's an easier way ("indirect") to traverse between Red Cap and Tank Peak. I suspect this goes mostly along (below) the left (NE) side of the ridge. Hope someone will give more details in the Comments to this page -- or post that as a separate NW Ridge "indirect" route.

details:
The main navigational problem is to get down from the summit of Red Cap, then up onto the ridge connecting Red Cap to Tank Peak. The obstacle is a chasm on the SE side of the summit cap. Turns out to be complicated ...

Walk to the W side of the summit cap, then NW down a short vertical groove / chimney - thoughtful sequence (5.3). Next walk past small "tank" pond (tinaja) and around the N + NE side of the cap, then scramble down SE (5th class with some exposure) into chasm. Next up SW about 45 feet to high point of chasm -- now roughly ENE from Red Cap summit around (N36.1661 W115.4425).

Next continue over this high point and down the other side about 40 feet SE + E. Turn Right and down 130 ft generally S into another gully, then exit left and traverse ESE into another gully and about 25 feet SE down this to its bottom (N36.1658 W115.4421). Next a bit south, then east to get on the crest of the ridge at around (N36.1654 W115.4418).

Continue 1800 ft (0.35 mile) generally SouthEast along the ridge, trying to climb up over as many high-point nubs as possible (could be 10? depends on how you count) - staying close to the crest as much as possible and finding interesting climbing moves (several 5.4 segments, can also find some 5.6 and harder). Where "direct" progress seems blocked, usually it's easiest to bypass them below on the left (NE) side of the ridge.

descent:
Easier to descent the SSW face (or WSW face?) of Tank Peak, then return to Sandstone Quarry parking by the maintained Calico Tanks trail.

Location 

The logical well-defined starting point for the NW Ridge is the summit of Red Cap.
The simplest way to reach that is the North Gully route. But likely one of the West side routes on Red Cap would provide a way to reach the NW ridge of Tank Peak quicker and closer to Tank Peak.

Protection 

No fixed hardware for anchor or intermediate protection.

Protection for trad leading is unknown.


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