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Glass Ocean and Environs
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Left Tributary S 
Lord of the Long Arms T,TR 
Northwest Passage T,TR 
Open Water T 
Pane, The S 
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Seam, The T 
Thar She Blows T 
Troubled Seas T 
Tsunami S 

Northwest Passage 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pat Contor and Gary Taylor
Page Views: 2,599
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Jun 17, 2006

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Coming up the thin slabby section near the top of ...


This is probably a much better climb in the later afternoon and evening. We made the mistake of climbing this on a hot morning in direct sun. We were planning on climbing both pitches, but ran out of water (and time). The first pitch is continuously difficult with the hardest climbing in the lower two-thirds. The small roof below the belay ledge can easily be overcome with good footwork. This is a good climb for those that don't get pumped on Glass Ocean and want to top out next to the "diving board". I'll have to add more details once I complete the second pitch.


The direct start for Northwest Passage consists of the first two bolts of Glass Ocean. Continue straight up instead of traversing right on the ledge (Glass Ocean). Follow six more bolts to the anchor on the ledge 100 feet from the ground. There should be 2 pins at the "diving board" atop the second pitch. A two rope rappel is required.


15 draws if lead in one pitch, plus a standard trad rack to fill in the blanks. We set up a top rope on the top of the first pitch with a 60 meter rope (barely long enough). Trad gear is needed to pull the roof before reaching the bolts on the second pitch.

Photos of Northwest Passage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying next to the "Diving Board" atop...
Belaying next to the "Diving Board" atop...

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By tenesmus
Jun 17, 2006

This really is a fun way up to the diving board. The face moves are all there on nicely featured ripples of quartzite. You can almost imagine the bottom of a sandy ocean or a sand dune turned on its side. techy/balancy. pulling the roof is fun and has great pro. Like all the routes up there, its best to do it in one long pitch.

oh - and its not hot early in the morning but it is kind of as far from the car as you want to get if you're looking to get to work on time.
By Nathan Fisher
Aug 1, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

2nd pitch shows 8 bolt, there might be less than that. It starts in the wide crack right of the anchors. #2 Camalot size and less. Some exciting moves through that crack, then you start the leftward shuffle and clipping bolts. Don't go too far left and clip the lone bolt of High Dive (I did), or you will have to back track and waste good arm strength. It then climbs through another technical area onto a smooth polished smedgy face. As you cross the hand traverse on High Dive (only good rest on the upper face), plug a piece. Follow the bolts to the thin crack ignoring the bent 1/4"er above High Dive's hand traverse.
This upper face is way fuin, but very tough. In fact the 1st pitch goes at 5.9(+) and is a nice 1 pitch route for a bit harder version of Glass Ocean. The 2nd pitch is very consistently hard 5.10, whether it's roof pulling, steep hand crack, technical traversing, or slope-y fingertip crimps.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Oct 2, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

One pitch?!?! I think it would be pretty difficult to do the balancy moves at the top with all that rope weight. I'd recommend doing it in two. Tsunami is a greate way to get to the belay ledge. I think a .75, & 1 camalot is sufficient for the crack and a couple of long runners there will help too. You might like a couple of smaller cams on the upper section to supplement the 6 bolts.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 29, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awesome line. P1 feels slightly easier than glass ocean, or maybe just left sustained. The crack on P2 is fairly awkward thin hands and doesn't take anything larger than a #1. Once past the crack things get airy and thin. Nuts and microcams help in keeping it together above the 2nd (?) bolt runout.
By DoubleA
Jun 7, 2010

Good route, definitely fun to do in one pitch, just watch rope drag. The only pieces I placed were .75 and #1 camalots and it didn't feel that runout (aside from the easy slab down low).
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 26, 2010

Pitch 1: easier than Glass Ocean; turning the "roof" at the top is no problem.

Pitch 2: overhanging 5.9 crack moves (protected by #1 camalot and smaller) lead to the first bolt. From Bolts 1-3 the climbing is straightforward on thin holds. Plug something when crossing the High Dive hand traverse and commit to the upper face. I found the last 3 bolts to be the crux; hard 5.10 climbing on inobvious ripples and face holds. End at an anchor by the diving board consisting of an old piton and a solid bolt w/ chain.

Fabulous climb.
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Oct 29, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Used 3 cams to fill in the blanks on this one. Two of which were before the first bolt. Pumpy start. Good climb.
By justa beater
From: sandy utah
Aug 17, 2014

Did it in one pitch today and rope drag wasn't too big of factor just remember to runner the last piece or two as you leave the hand crack. I did a variation from the bolt line and went right when I pulled through the hand crack to find a couple easier blocks then into an awesome finger crack with some cool one finger holds and micro gear placements to the chains. Super fun.worth the approach.

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