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South Early Winters Spire
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Boving Roofs T 
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Hitchhiker, The T 
Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) T 
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Southwest Rib T 

Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Boving and Kerns 1977
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,576
Submitted By: PTSinner on Sep 15, 2011  with updates from Jean Spencer

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Route

Description 

The northwest face is a fun varied route up the shorter west face of SEWS. Fairly serious climbing right of the ground and multiple minor cruxes make this more of an undertaking than the west face of NEWS. However, it makes for a more adventurous and challenging route.

Pitch 1: Traverse into the steep corner and make committing 10ish moves up to a prominent ledge, groups may belay on small gear from right side of the ledge but we continued past a committing 10 move to a good belay in a small tree with pitons and cams for pro. (10ish)

Pitch 2: Continue up the right facing corner with limited feet and hard gear placement. This was rated 11a in the guide but is solid for that grade. (11)

Pitch 3: Head up a short chimney and continue right into a vegitated crack. Continue working upward past a block and into a big ledge to belay. (8)

Pitch 4: Scramble or rope up and head for the base of the prominent set of overhangs above.

Pitch 5: Climb over the pair of obvious overhangs and belay in a gully. Good pro and commiting moves. (10)

Pitch 6: Climb straight up a nice hand crack past a 9ish move and head right to the top. We belayed after the hand crack and then simuled/scrambled to the top. (9)

Location 

This route is on the climbers right looking up the gulley between NEWS and SEWS. The route starts with a short traverse over to a steep corner just below the last rap out of the gulley.

Protection 

Standard rack with extra TCUs or aliens.


Photos of Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Boving Roofs
BETA PHOTO: The Boving Roofs
Rock Climbing Photo: P2, harder than it looks
BETA PHOTO: P2, harder than it looks
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Climb
BETA PHOTO: Start of Climb

Comments on Northwest Face (Boving-Pollock) Add Comment
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By Eric Fjellanger
Jul 7, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

In contrast to the description above, Supertopo describes the crux pitch as 5.11a with good gear, good for aspiring leaders to break into the 5.11s. I agree with that, the crux is short and if you have an assortment of small cams you can protect it nicely.
By Aaron Nash
From: North Bend, WA
Jun 15, 2015

As of June 2015, there is a large, extremely loose block at the start of the Boving roofs pitch (5); a few moves up off the anchor. Be very careful; it looks like a great handhold but if pulled, will for sure hit your belayer. I wanted to pull it off, but it being the weekend and without knowing if anyone was below, we left it. Would be hard to lower it down from that point, but possibly do-able.
By Jean Spencer
From: Seattle, WA
May 15, 2016

This route is listing as "Boving-Pollock" in Blake Herrington's new guidebook.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
May 15, 2016

I wish people would list full names for the FA parties. Not only does it give proper credit, it helps others to recognize mistakes.

In this case, it was probably Paul Boving as one of the FA guys. But who was the other?
By Drewsky
Jul 27, 2016

I think the first ascentionists were Paul Boving, Steve Pollock and Matt Kerns if I'm not mistaken.

This route is a good little adventure. We climbed it the day after some very heavy rain and the first pitch was soaked, as was the hardest part of the crux second pitch. Both were still climbable although it made the climbing on the first pitch a little more exciting. There was some amount of water on nearly every pitch afterwards as well, so perhaps the route is somewhat of a natural drainage.

I didn't really look at a topo beforehand and got off-route on the third pitch. It's easy to avoid, but if you're uncertain for some reason don't go left up the hollow flakes; I dead ended above some gritty, scary ground and had to downclimb.

Below the Boving Roof pitch still lurks the aforementioned loose block. As I unwittingly pulled on it, it began to tilt alarmingly outwards and I quickly pushed it back into place. It probably weighs 30-40 lbs and would almost certainly land on the belayer if dislodged. I drew an 'x' on it because like Aaron, we were climbing the route on a weekend and I didn't wish to trundle it haphazardly. It's somewhat hard to avoid as well because it's a tempting foothold while starting the traverse left out the first roof.
By Zachary Winters
From: Mazama, Washington
Aug 1, 2016

Thanks Drewsky, saw your X and avoided it, but it feels really loose. Seems like this would be good to trundle, as it lurks above a belay of hyper-popular SW Rib. Would obviously have to be a bad weather day with nobody around.