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Northeast Snowfield and Couloir
3rd YDS 1- French 1 Ewbanks I UIAA 1 ZA M 1a British R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Mount Fryxell (Peak 11270 at head of Paintbrush Canyon)
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Leaping Deer Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a WI2 R |
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Northeast Snowfield and Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a R |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1400 ft (424 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Unknown. Peter Lenz climbed it on July 16th, 2016 |
| Page Views: | 3,978 total · 42/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Lenz on Jul 23, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: If you stay over night in Paintbrush Canyon, you will need too obtain a permit at Jenny Lake Ranger Station
Details
Description
This route ascends the snow slope and couloir Northeast of the summit formation. (Couloir on right in photo.) The crux is the narrow (5-10 feet wide) upper couloir. Gain the Northwest ridge and scramble to summit. Descent: descend NE Ridge past the top of the NE couloir to small notch, and descend moderate snow slopes into Paintbrush Canyon.
I do not recommend traveling a long distance for this route alone, but if you are hiking the Paintbrush Canyon Loop, and have an ice axe and crampons with you anyway, this is a superb addition to your journey.
A round trip from a high camp can easily be accomplished in 4-5 hours from Upper Paintbrush Canyon.
This route could be skied by a skilled person, under the right conditions.
I do not recommend traveling a long distance for this route alone, but if you are hiking the Paintbrush Canyon Loop, and have an ice axe and crampons with you anyway, this is a superb addition to your journey.
A round trip from a high camp can easily be accomplished in 4-5 hours from Upper Paintbrush Canyon.
This route could be skied by a skilled person, under the right conditions.
Location
From Upper Paintbrush Canyon, this route is the snow slope and couloir immediately North of the summit.
I descended the Northwest ridge to a small notch, then descended a series of moderate snow slopes to my camp in Upper Paintbrush Canyon
I descended the Northwest ridge to a small notch, then descended a series of moderate snow slopes to my camp in Upper Paintbrush Canyon
Protection
Don't fall. This is a steep snow couloir at the top. A self arrest is a dubious proposition. I brought one lightweight short ice axe, light alpine boots, and Kahtoola chain/spike crampons. You may wish to bring two tools and real crampons. Temperatures were above freezing when I climbed it, but the snow surface was hard, nevertheless, and step kicking required some oomph.
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