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Northern San Juans

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'S6' Pk 13,441 
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Northern San Juans Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 13,000'
Location: 37.93917, -107.80766 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,185
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Stiles on Nov 7, 2013
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Jennifer Roach on the summit, one of her last 13er...


Telluride, Ouray, and Silverton are surrounded by thirteeners and fourteeners with a plethora of technical options that can be ascended year round. The San Juans are the 'freshest' mountain range in the US (newest geologically), and the rock quality is generally chossy everywhere. Once the angle rears up to near vertical; however, the rock improves to a point of taking gear you can trust. Alpine routes are best climbed when ice is present for protection and to hold the choss together, but most can be climbed year round. Lots of alpine ice forms in the fall and spring. Many, many accidents and deaths have occurred to hikers on the local 14ers due to rockfall. Full winter ascents are rare, and skis are almost required. The remoteness of these routes compromises rescue severely It's best not to trust your gear, ever (don't plan on rappel descents or pushing yourself); however, the technical standard in the entire area is generally low (5.5-5.8, AI3-4). There are traverses aplenty, and most peaks can be descended with low grade downclimbing if not hiking by the hiking routes. Other hiking sites are sources of beta (,, as well as the local guide service in town).

Almost all of the technical routes are at the tops of the peaks which means long approaches and plenty of scrambling in and out. Trails crisscross everywhere and the majority of routes around can be climbed in a long day. Camping is free in the National Forest for 14 days per location.

With the exception of the 'hiking' routes on the local 14ers, it is unlikely to encounter others. I say 'hiking' because the standard routes to summits require plenty of 4th class and sometimes low 5th class on loose rock with high exposure and high consequences.

Getting There 

Telluride is in Southwestern Colorado. About 6 1/2 hours from Denver, 2 1/2 hours from Grand Junction, 2 1/2 hours from Durango, 2 1/2 hours from Moab, UT. The closest reasonably priced airport is 1 1/2 hours away in Montrose. You can fly direct to Telluride. The Victoria Inn is the cheapest accommodations in town. Groceries and liquor stores are expensive (as is everything else), so do your shopping before you arrive. There is a laundromat just outside of town in Lawson Hill; in the same area as the Telluride Brewery. Drink good beer while you wash the fear-sweat outa yo undies.

Climbing Season

For the Alpine Rock area.

Weather station 0.9 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Northern San Juans

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Northern San Juans:
Southeast Ridge    Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 40'   Teakettle Mountain
Southwest Chimney   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400'   Lizard Head
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Northern San Juans

Featured Route For Northern San Juans
Rock Climbing Photo: Gilpin just right of center and Sneffels behind. B...

Emma/Gilpin/Sneffels Ski Tour 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b  Colorado : Alpine Rock : ... : Telluride Traverses
This is an Emma, Gilpin, and Sneffels ski traverse, south to north, with roughly 8,000' of ascent.Start up the south face of Mt Emma (13,581') from Telluride (8,750'). Ascend steep snow to the ridgeline just south of the summit, and then do a wee bit of scrambling the final hundred feet to the summit. Ski the steep north face of Mt. Emma through various cliffbands to a shelf (~12,250) below the south face of Gilpin Peak.A slender hallwa...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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