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Northern Revival 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 360'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Matt McCormick and Naomi Risch, Aug, 2008
Page Views: 2,578
Submitted By: Matt McCormick on Oct 19, 2009

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Chimneying high in the corner before breaking out ...

Description 

Follows the right-facing corner system just right of Too Wet to Plow. Amazing position and unique movement with steep bouldery sequences on pinches and slopey crimps, requiring many small cams in a row. With proper rope management you can combine P1 and P2. The name comes from McCormick getting reinvigorated from climbing in the north country. This route is yet to see a repeat. Get after it!

Start: Same as Wiessner Route.
P1 5.5 G: Climb P1 of Wiessner Route to the first big ledge. Traverse to the right end of the ledge below a left-leaning, left-facing corner and belay on small cams. 70'

P2 5.10d PG: Follow the left-facing corner system up and left using many long slings to reduce drag later in the pitch. At the top of the corner, step back right past a bolt and continue up past small cam placements and another bolt to a fixed anchor on a hanging ramp. (Note: A red Alien or large HB offset protect the moves to the anchor.) 80'

P3 5.12c PG: Work up and right past two bolts (crux) and follow the corner until below a small roof where the crack runs out (black alien under the roof is the only piece that will fit). Run it out up and right to a shallow left-facing corner and good gear. Pull out right around the corner and up the face to a beautiful ledge and fixed anchor. 150'

P4 5.9 PG: A wonderfully exposed pitch up the very prow of the wall: head up and left and pull around the left side of an arête. Stay just left of the arête past small gear placements to the top. 60'

Location 

Begin as for the Wiessner route and then break out right to the base of the left leaning corner to belay for pitch 2.

Protection 

Be mindful of the protection, as several gear placements make the difference between this being reasonable and R-rated. Bring triples of purple C3/Black alien size and doubles of red C3 size. Singles on other cams plus some small wires.


Photos of Northern Revival Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Another shot of the corner!
Another shot of the corner!
Rock Climbing Photo: Naomi following the last pitch
Naomi following the last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: placing one of many micro cams!
placing one of many micro cams!
Rock Climbing Photo: In the crux corner
In the crux corner

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