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Northern Comfort 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: P. Croft, J. Hall, S. Cheyney, 1975
Season: faces South
Page Views: 111
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 1, 2016

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Description 

Northern Comfort is an independent pitch worth the effort that branches off from the stellar first pitch of 'Southern Comfort.' I went for this option instead of the 5.7 option to finish Southern Comfort in order to keep the grade consistent at the 5.9 level.

P1. Climb P1 of Southern Comfort past the first 'sling belay' opportunity and up into the corner to the right of the overhanging flake and belay off of hand-sized gear (120').

P2. The independent pitch: break left onto semi-positive face holds (5.8-), and climb up with occasional nuts or Aliens up and right, then go up a handcrack with good gear up and left to the summit (70').

With good sling management, this would have likely gone well as a single pitch with a 70m rope. A 60m rope would reach the top but not back to were you need to get to set an anchor, and the bottom is not good simul-climbing material.

Location 

This is a pitch branching out left from Southern Comfort on the upper half.

Protection 

Small stoppers to 3", no additional gear beyond what you'd use for Southern Comfort, really. 1.5-3" gear is available for the belay at mid-climb. Take your choice if you choose to stop there, but be sure to have a few extras in that size to account for that.

I did not find any use for the RPs the Haas book mentions being useful, nor was the route ever runout. Perhaps some judgment about odd placements on the first section of the second pitch merit the PG-13 grade assigned in that book.


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By Adam Block
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 1, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The crux moves are only 5 feet above the last gear (I found a red DMM offset and red C3 to be key in protecting the crux), which may warrant a PG-13 for some, but it is a clean fall. The handcrack up top is nothing to worry about and is a waltz compared to the slab. Nothing more than a 1" piece needed up there.

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