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Northeast Wall and Buttress 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1900', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Charles Wilts, Harry Sutherland - 9.7.1946
Page Views: 723
Submitted By: Preston Rhea on Sep 24, 2014

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Looking up from the bottom of pitch 1.

Description 

An oldschool classic, the Northeast Wall and Buttress was the first route to tackle the massive north face of Mount Morrison head on. It follows a large gully system up to the upper pitches of the North Buttress. It is a great introduction to the north face. Despite the moderate rating, be aware that due to the nature of the rock, this route should be saved for experienced trad leaders who are solid at a couple grades higher than required.

Approach the start of the climb via 300' apron of 3rd class that is about 200' to the left of the toe of the buttress. Climb up to the top of the triangle-shaped apron to the large ledge below the first pitch.

Pitch 1 - Straightforward climbing up a dihedral to a ledge. The climbing on this pitch is classically good fun.

Pitch 2 - Easy face climbing off of the ledge leads back into the thin crack system of the dihedral of pitch 1. Some exciting moves lead to a small ledge in the corner with an ancient fixed pin that could be removed by hand.

Pitch 3 - Continue up the corner system moving left where the terrain is easier. Above the crack system another pin is passed. Continue straight up over steep rock to a ledge.

Pitch 4 - Steep juggy face climbing directly above the ledge eases off into a narrow gully. Follow the gully until a large ledge is reached below a fork in the large system that pitches 1-4 have so far followed.

Pitch 5 - Climb up and right into an easy gully.

Pitch 6 - Follow the gully up to the crest of the north buttress.

Pitch 7 - Follow the crest of the buttress.

Pitch 8 - At a tower along the crest, traverse left into a fun crack which leads back to the crest.

Pitch 9 - Another pitch along the crest of the buttress leads to a short headwall.

Pitch 10 - Steep and exciting climbing up the right side of a reddish dihedral leads to another large ledge.

Pitch 11 - Easy climbing up another headwall towards the obvious red chimney. Belay just before the chimney to avoid rockfall on the next pitch.

Pitch 12 - Follow the red chimney to the notch on top. This pitch has a lot of large dangerous blocks. Caution is required.

A short 40' rappel down the back side of the notch leads to easy 3rd class climbing for 400' to the summit.

Many pitches could probably be linked with close attention to potential rope drag.

Location 

The route starts about 200' to the left of the toe of the buttress atop a large, triangle-shaped apron of 3rd class rock at the base of very large and obvious gully.

Descend via the east slopes from the summit. During the 3rd class scramble to the true summit from the top of the route, do not try to contour left towards the east slope until no more than 100' from the true summit. It crosses many ridges and does not save time or make things any easier.

Protection 

The rack should consist of doubles in cams from .4-#2 and single #3. Singles in smaller cams are helpful as well as smaller to mirco nuts.


Photos of Northeast Wall and Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the buttress from pitch 11.
Looking down the buttress from pitch 11.
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the route from the bottom.
A view of the route from the bottom.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 11.
Pitch 11.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 6.
Pitch 6.
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch.
Second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: NE Wall and Buttress
BETA PHOTO: NE Wall and Buttress

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