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Mount Fryxell (Peak 11270 at head of Paintbrush Canyon)
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Leaping Deer Couloir T 
Northeast Snowfield and Couloir T 

Northeast Snowfield and Couloir 

YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 3rd French: 1- Ewbanks: 1 UIAA: I ZA: 1 British: M 1a R [details]
FA: Unknown. Peter Lenz climbed it on July 16th, 2016
Season: late Spring or early Summer
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: PeterSLenz on Jul 23, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: NE Snowfield and Couloir is right of summit.

If you stay over night in Paintbrush Canyon, you will need too obtain a permit at Jenny Lake Ranger Station


This route ascends the snow slope and couloir Northeast of the summit formation. (Couloir on right in photo.) The crux is the narrow (5-10 feet wide) upper couloir. Gain the Northwest ridge and scramble to summit. Descent: descend NE Ridge past the top of the NE couloir to small notch, and descend moderate snow slopes into Paintbrush Canyon.
I do not recommend traveling a long distance for this route alone, but if you are hiking the Paintbrush Canyon Loop, and have an ice axe and crampons with you anyway, this is a superb addition to your journey.
A round trip from a high camp can easily be accomplished in 4-5 hours from Upper Paintbrush Canyon.
This route could be skied by a skilled person, under the right conditions.


From Upper Paintbrush Canyon, this route is the snow slope and couloir immediately North of the summit.
I descended the Northwest ridge to a small notch, then descended a series of moderate snow slopes to my camp in Upper Paintbrush Canyon


Don't fall. This is a steep snow couloir at the top. A self arrest is a dubious proposition. I brought one lightweight short ice axe, light alpine boots, and Kahtoola chain/spike crampons. You may wish to bring two tools and real crampons. Temperatures were above freezing when I climbed it, but the snow surface was hard, nevertheless, and step kicking required some oomph.

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