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Spazzacaldeira
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La Fiamma  S 
Lasciamilì 6a S 
Nasi Goreng 6a T 
Northeast Ridge T 
Steinfresser 6b S 
Via Felice 6a S 
Via Leni 6b S 

Northeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: A.H. Sommer 7 September 1928
Season: summer and warm fall
Page Views: 72
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Mar 26, 2017

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Racing the fog to the top of the NE Ridge of Spazz...

Description 

The Northeast Ridge of the Spazzacaldeira is a fun multi pitch route on fine granite with great views of the Albigna area. A nice ramble and introduction to the rock and multi pitch routes for the area, as well as an easy climb leading to the base of the wildly popular Fiamma as well as the more stumpy Dente.

Aka as the Normale al Dente and the Central Spur.

From the approach trail, scramble up lower angle rock interspersed with grassy slopes trending to the right to the base of the deep gully below the arête to the right. Some fixed rope along the way. A belay station with fixed gear marks the start of the route.

Climb the arête on fine rock with a few bolts for protection. Great position and fun, steep climbing. Continue up until the notch is reached.

At the notch, wind down into blocks and pass the little spire block to the left, popping out behind at the base of a steep wall. Traverse to the right on ledges to the base of the ridge.

There’s a steep bit up a sharp crack line with a fair bit of fixed gear. Step right and gain a ramp leading to the ridge crest.

Follow the crest of the ridge to its top. Either stay on the exposed left side, or, follow lower angle cracks to the right. Several pitches.

A short rappel into a blocky area leads south to the trail to the Dente and/or Fiamma. Follow the trail to the south to gain the base of the formation.

Location 

Start from the road from the tram just below the dam. When the road swings back to the south, note the large, grassy apron and scree gully with a well trodden trail winding up to its apex.

Protection 

The lower part of the route has some fixed pro (bolts and pitons) but the upper ridge line seems to have little in the way of gear in situ. A small rack of especially medium sized nuts and cams along with the requisite quick draws and slings should prove useful.


Photos of Northeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing past the notch on the NE Ridge of Spazz...
Traversing past the notch on the NE Ridge of Spazz...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun lower pitch on the NE Ridge of the Spazzacalde...
Fun lower pitch on the NE Ridge of the Spazzacalde...
Rock Climbing Photo: Carol coming up towards the notch on the NE Ridge ...
Carol coming up towards the notch on the NE Ridge ...
Rock Climbing Photo: NE Ridge of Spazzacaldera is the shadowed right sl...
BETA PHOTO: NE Ridge of Spazzacaldera is the shadowed right sl...

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