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Peak 12,563
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Northeast Ridge T 

Northeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Galen Rowell, July 1982
Page Views: 246
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Jul 16, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Peak 12,563, Northeast Ridge

Description 

This fun route is a good adventure climb in it's own right or a great warm-up for other climbs in the area. It hasn't seen a ton of traffic as of 2015 so there is a bit of flakey rock.

There are a lot of possible variations here, this one works well.

Start left of the toe of the ridge and left of an orangeish right facing corner, around 11,670 feet. Climb a few pitches, choosing your own adventure and staying just left of the crest of the ridge.

This leads to a shallow gully with 3rd and 4th class ledges and some loose rock. Up this to gain the ridge crest.

Once on the crest there is some 5th class climbing but it's mostly 4th class to the summit block, which is 5.2.

Descent 

Descend the sandy west slopes and back through Royce Col.

Protection 

Single rack to #3 C4.


Photos of Northeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: We started climbing in the center of this photo, l...
BETA PHOTO: We started climbing in the center of this photo, l...

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By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Aug 11, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A fun route, if broken in areas, the final pitch dumps you (literally) on a narrow ridge with outstanding views. The summit block is not for the faint-hearted.

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