Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Zeus
Select Route:
Northeast Ridge T 
Sisyphus T 

Northeast Ridge 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A0 [details]
FA: Eric Bjornstad, Fred Beckey, Sept., 1970
Page Views: 2,673
Submitted By: toddgordon on Jun 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Steve Swanke on Zeus. Photo; Todd Gordon

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb had a tiny bit of free climbing, and then mostly all aid off many bolts. There were 35 bolts on this climb, but the bolts were removed, and this climb no longer exists.

Location 

This climb went up the northeast ridge of Zeus.

Protection 

You USED to need alot of quick draws and a few cams.(# 2 and # 4 friend)


Photos of Northeast Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Swanke on NE Ridge of Zeus.  Photo; Todd Gor...
Steve Swanke on NE Ridge of Zeus. Photo; Todd Gor...
Rock Climbing Photo: Old topo from '88.
Old topo from '88.
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Swanke on the summit of Zeus, Moses in the b...
Steve Swanke on the summit of Zeus, Moses in the b...

Comments on Northeast Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Kiessel
Jun 23, 2007

What a shame. Hopefully the Compressor Route does not have the same fate.
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 9, 2007

was it chopped? were the bolts removed? can it be "retro-fitted"?
By Ben Kiessel
Jul 12, 2007

To quote Eric in DR 1, "Bolts placed on the historic first ascent were chopped by an unknown party playing God, leaving behind the graffiti of bolt-hole scars."

Pretty lame that someone would chop another person’s route, especially when it is in the middle of the dessert.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jan 11, 2008

Back in the clean-climbin' seventies I used to hear a lot of Beckey bad-mouthing. Always by gumbies who couldn't do his routes. Even this one!

Thanks for posting this one Todd.
By Kurt Johnson
From: Estes Park, CO
Apr 8, 2008

Are the bolt holes in good shape and useable enough for removable bolts like those made by Climb Tech?
By Brian in SLC
Apr 8, 2008

Nope. There really aren't any holes. Who ever chopped this route did kinda that: chopped it. Most of the holes still have a bolt in them, with a mangled and/or flattened hanger. Some are bolt shafts. Didn't recall any holes. Looks aweful.
By James Garrett
Dec 18, 2009

I agree that it it is indeed sad that somebody eliminated this route. Glad I was able to do it back in the 80s with Carolina Petrelli and Dougal McCarty when it was still "in". Without any guidebooks back then, it was quite an adventure doing it We had a blast as I recall, and consider it a blasphemy that someone decided to chop a classic route in a beautiful setting. Wish I could just go "run" up it again sometime.
By Jamie Princo
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2010

someone removed the bolts?!?!? come on!

my heart just jumped after discovering there was a 5.7/A0 on zeus, then sank while reading about the bolts. that sucks. does canyonlands no bolts ethics prevent bolts from being replaced in the old slots once again since it's not further scarring the rock? what do you think the route goes without the bolts? 5.9?

jamie
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 25, 2010

Without the bolts it'll probably go at around 5.16 X. A 35 bolt ladder on Wingate doesn't sound like a great free climbing project.
By Highclmbr
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 28, 2013

To Ben's comment above, the compressor route on Cerro Torre did die the same fate, sorry.

climberism.com/cerro-torres-co...