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NorthEast Ridge Direct TR 
NorthEast ridge Left side TR 
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Right Connect from Melchsee TR 
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NorthEast ridge Right side 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 2 pitches, 175'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 16
Submitted By: kenr on Aug 1, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Miroir sector 8 Y. Right Connect from Melchsee Z...

Description 

Interesting moves.

Stay to right side of ridge crest - sometimes farther right.

Logical point to finish first pitch is at bush above right from big bush blocking the crest of the ridge.

Finish up to around the corner to right of two-bolt anchor.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location 

Wide ledge on top of sector Lavorgo.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection 

Fixed protection only top anchor: Two-bolts-connected-with-chain with rappel ring. No intermediate bolts for leading.
. . (for details about this anchor, See under Protection for the route "NorthWest Ridge Direct").

For parties who want to "top out" onto the summit ridge of the Dent d'Argentine, there is a two-bolt anchor on the summit ridge about 12-15 feet above left from the two-bolts-with-chain anchor which is just below the cliff-top.
. . (for details about this anchor, See under Protection for the route "NorthWest Ridge Direct").Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Miroir sector.

There is a facultative bolt on the summit ridge about 12-15 feet above left from the two-bolt anchor.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.


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