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Adamant- Turret- Austerity Traverse T 
Direct Northwest Ridge of Outpost T 
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Houdini Needle(s) "Std" Route & Houdini-Pythias Traverse T 
Iron Man- Gibson/Rohn T 
Mt Thor - East Ridge T 
N E Ridge of Pioneer T 
NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) T 
Pioneer via Pioneer Pass & East Ridge T 
South Buttress, Adamant Mountain T 
W. Face of Quadrant's So. Peak ("Cross-Hall")  T 
West Buttress of the Horn T 
Unsorted Routes:

NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b WI3 A1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Ice, Alpine, 14 pitches, 2000', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b WI3 A1 [details]
FA: R. Hall & J. Bede July 30, 1979
Season: Summer
Page Views: 472
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Dec 15, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: The Nester Ridge, North (East) Ridge Mt Austerity ...

Description 

10 to 16 pitches, much of it Class 4 and easy class 5.

Named for Ed Nester, a fine all-around mountaineer, who had tried the route 3 times (1968, 1972 and 1978) before losing his life on it in 1978 due to a rap-anchor failure when a refrigerator-sized block dislodged. In the Fairy Meadow logbook the 2nd ascent party call this "the finest mountaineering route in the range." 4 stars except for the two pitches above the ice gully, and possible fractured rock at the top of the gully.

Snow recession may make this route better to climb in the early season.

Description - Climb into the upper Granite Glacier and into the glacial amphitheater between the North EAST and North WEST ridges of the North Ridge of Mt Austerity.

Pitches 1-4 - The F.A. party surmounted the bergshrund a few ropelengths left (north) of the snow/ice gulley which is used to climb to the ridge. (3-5 pitches, snow/ice) [Early season probably best, here.] At the ridge find a "spacious" stance...where Julius Bede waited 3 days for a helicopter rescue in 1978 after Ed fell, pulling both ropes down with him.

Pitches 5&6 Slightly up and right, around a corner [photo] and then up a pitch or two of, easy but fractured rock to regain the ridge.

P7&8 Climb the snow arete. [Note: The photo on page 307 of David Jones' "Selkirks North" seems to show route 404 (East Face) joining just above this snow arete, it actually joins several pitches higher.]

P9-11? Climb easy (Cls 4 to 5.5 +/-) for several pitches until a very steep face is reached. [Future climbers may wish to tackle this face via the very thin crack that leads up it!]

P12- Traverse right on a "sidewalk" until one can overlook the amphitheater to the west and see a low-angled, but "bottomless", chimney system that leads back left to the crest. Climb the short wall directly above you (piton left in place) the FA party then slung a small horn and used aid to reach holds that led down and right into the base of the chimney. (Crux, 5.7 A-1, may be more serious to follow than to lead) Climb up the low angle chimney.

Pitches 13-16+/- Climb along the very easy ridge crest, passing the cairn from the 1967 F.A. of the East Face/North Ridge, and onto the summit. (Photo)

Descent- Down climb the normal route on Austerity to the Austerity-Ironman "col" (excellent bivi site) then down the normal route on the upper Granite Glacier. Ideally, one of the party should be familiar with this route.

Protection 

Standard Rack


Photos of NorthEast Ridge Mt. Austerity (Nester Ridge) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: RoutePhoto#1 - On Granite Glacier - the snow/ice g...
BETA PHOTO: RoutePhoto#1 - On Granite Glacier - the snow/ice g...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Austerity from Mt Horn, Showing Nester Ridge an...
BETA PHOTO: Mt Austerity from Mt Horn, Showing Nester Ridge an...
Rock Climbing Photo: RoutePhoto#7 - High on the ridge at the cairn (jus...
BETA PHOTO: RoutePhoto#7 - High on the ridge at the cairn (jus...
Rock Climbing Photo: RoutePhoto#4A  - Ed Nester in 1972 moving Right, o...
BETA PHOTO: RoutePhoto#4A - Ed Nester in 1972 moving Right, o...
Rock Climbing Photo: RoutePhoto#4 - Just above the top of the snow/ice ...
BETA PHOTO: RoutePhoto#4 - Just above the top of the snow/ice ...
Rock Climbing Photo: RoutePhoto#6 - The Rock Pitches immediately above ...
BETA PHOTO: RoutePhoto#6 - The Rock Pitches immediately above ...
Rock Climbing Photo: RoutePhoto#5 - J. Bede on the Snow Arete on the F....
BETA PHOTO: RoutePhoto#5 - J. Bede on the Snow Arete on the F....
Rock Climbing Photo: RoutePhoto#2 - Julius Bede on the initial ice pitc...
BETA PHOTO: RoutePhoto#2 - Julius Bede on the initial ice pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: RoutePhoto#3 - Julius Bede on the ice (Pitches 1-4...
RoutePhoto#3 - Julius Bede on the ice (Pitches 1-4...
Rock Climbing Photo: North Ridge, above junc. with East Face (More snow...
North Ridge, above junc. with East Face (More snow...
Rock Climbing Photo: Columbia "trench" and the Cairn at junc....
Columbia "trench" and the Cairn at junc....
Rock Climbing Photo: A young Ed Nester prussicking at the Uberfall at t...
A young Ed Nester prussicking at the Uberfall at t...

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