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NorthEast Ridge Direct 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  TR, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 20
Submitted By: kenr on Aug 1, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Miroir sector 8 Y. Right Connect from Melchsee Z...


Lots of thoughtful face moves on crest of ridge.
Idea is to make all moves as much exactly on the crest as possible. The crest weaves a bit.

Start up the small buttress, then right a bit to find the next crest section. Logical place to finish the first pitch is at bit bush blocking the crest.

Next around right side of big bush, squirm in behind it and somehow get up onto the crest rock. Finish up to two-bolt anchor.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.


On grassy ramp sloping down right from bottom of bolted route "Platform +Bulge", at base of small buttress which is below left from top of sector Lavorgo.

- - > See on this Photo


Fixed protection only top anchor: Two-bolts-connected-with-chain with rappel ring. No intermediate bolts for leading.
. . (bolts + hangers + rappel ring are 304 stainless. Other anchor hardware is mostly Plated-Steel. Anchor installed 2017).

For parties who want to "top out" onto the summit ridge of the Dent d'Argentine, there is a two-bolt anchor on the summit ridge about 12-15 feet above left from the two-bolts-with-chain anchor which is just below the cliff-top.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Miroir sector.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

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