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Pagoda Mountain
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Northeast Face 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 1,192
Submitted By: Bill Duncan on Apr 3, 2011

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One route on the NE face of Pagoda.

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The slabby wall to the left of the North Buttress contains several options for routes, but a line up the center/center left of the face is one of the good ones. This route was originally listed as taking 7 pitches to ascend, but with the advent of longer ropes and climbers more comfortable on easy or moderate terrain, 3-5 pitches seems more common these days.

The route ascends easy face climbing on moderate angle slabs to reach a system of shallow corners. Climb these as the route gradually steepens until the upper ledge is reached. Traverse right on this ledge to one of a number of easy summit pitches adjacent to or on the North Buttress.

Many variations are possible, all of about the same difficulty. This makes for a leisurely solo, if the North Buttress is already occupied.


Standard alpine rack.

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