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Scott Peak
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Northeast Face 
Sunset Glacier 

Northeast Face 


Type:  Ice, Alpine, 3500', Grade V
Original: WI1 Steep Snow [details]
Season: April - September
Page Views: 1,918
Submitted By: cerickson on Jun 3, 2009

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Steep, steep, icy skiing.

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!


The route is the steepest part of the NE face rising up from the Scott glacier (unofficial name) at the head of Denali's Unit 10. Steep snow (50 degrees) mixed with some steep alpine ice (70 degrees) create a beautiful route well worth attempting. The crux is the final move - getting over/through a cornice onto the summit. Otherwise most of the route is simul-climbable


Walk up the W fork of the Toklat river and walk right up to the obvious base of the route. Pick the steepest (most direct) line and go! Crevasses do exist at the base of the route. Our party skied the NE face - first recorded descent if we're not mistaken - otherwise a steep downclimb and possible rappels are needed.


Pickets and screws. One mountain ax and one tool are nice.

Photos of Northeast Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: It's a long walk from Toklat.
It's a long walk from Toklat.
Rock Climbing Photo: Spectacular view from the summit.
Spectacular view from the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting through the crux (20ft below the summit)
Getting through the crux (20ft below the summit)
Rock Climbing Photo: The NE face of Scott Peak.
BETA PHOTO: The NE face of Scott Peak.

Comments on Northeast Face Add Comment
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By cerickson
From: Portland, OR
Jun 3, 2009

You don't have to register in Talkeetna, but you do need a wilderness permit from the Backcountry desk at the Park Headquarters.

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