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Northeast Face 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Coliver, Keller, Waller, Lichtman - August 1966
Season: Early to Late Summer
Page Views: 2,594
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Aug 6, 2007

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Jonathan Bowman pulls up to the little ledge at th...


Another one of those High Sierra east faces which doesn't gets done much - but it's a good outing, especially the last 2 pitches which are pretty physco. The last pitch is very memorable.

P1 (5.7) Loose crack off sloping ledge.
P2 (5.7) Shallow groove, heading rightwards.
P3 (5.4) Easy climbing over loose blocks to sandy ledges.
P4 (5.4) Up chimney behind blocks and around the corner - good stuff.
P5 (5.6) Up easy slabs and cracks - fun.
P6 (5.4) Up rib, then right, easy.
P7 (5.4) Easy loose section right then up steps to platform.
P8 (5.6) Up cracks and big flakes to base of left-facing dihedral splitting the Headwall.
P9 (5.8) Good climbing up steep corner 'till beneath the roof then pull onto a cool, exposed little ledge and wonder why you ever came. Small wires and cams for belay.
P10 (5.9 crux) On the left, awkward and exposed up and over into the final crack - which is sustained all the way to a step left and toe traverse just below the summit.


Left of 2 sloping ledges on the NE face.


Standard rack with large cams for last pitch, ice-axe seasonal.

Photos of Northeast Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Schematic - the way we went and nothing more.
BETA PHOTO: Schematic - the way we went and nothing more.

Comments on Northeast Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By supert
Sep 4, 2013

Start below black water streak
P1 Climb through small roof
P2 Stay L of detached block
P9 (5.9) Steep, very loose rock, leaning pillars, hollow columns, dangerous
P10 (5.10a) Spectacular, exposed, hands - off width crack
Descent gully between Royce and Feather; stay left. Sand covered glacial ice, with loose rock. Recommend rappel vs down climb
By md3
Jun 4, 2015

I was on this in 2012 and the dangerous next to last pitch was really scary then with huge thin flakes/formations that you could easily pull off (onto your self or belayer). I recall having to use them a little to climb - not sure if a better climber could avoid touching them. Has anyone been on it since Supert and are conditions the same?
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Jun 4, 2015

If the post above is a more direct start - sounds good. As I think my party started too far to the left. Thanks for the advice on the dangerous loose second to last pitch - I seem to remember that, but it was 20 years ago. I do remember being very nervous with the anchor at the top of that pitch and urging my partner, who led the last pitch to get bomber pro as soon as possible.

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