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Northeast Corners (variation?) T 

Northeast Corners (variation?) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 750', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Greg Collins & three others, 1985
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: Jared Spaulding on Sep 5, 2014

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Joe Frost leading the first pitch.

Description 

Three excellent pitches on quality rock with fun movement up the east face of Ra Mountain. Two 4th/low 5th class pitches up to, and along the ridge lead to an exit to the gully, which can take you to the summit if desired.

This seems to fit the location of what Kelsey calls the Northeast Corners (III 5.10a), though besides the fixed pin up high, we saw no signs of previous travel. We may have done a variation as it the way we went does not match up super well with the guidebook.

Approach via the 3rd class gully to the north of the peak. Climb up the gully and gain the highest treed ledge and follow this south, then slightly west, passing a nice overhanging splitter hands/wide hands crack on the way. Follow ledge system until under obvious corner system on east face. About an hour from the valley floor.

P.1 Climb a chimney to a slab move, then left to a corner with a crack. Climb varied crack with good rests for 60+ meters to a large ledge. One can sling a block for an anchor here. (5.9+)

P.2 Climb up a lower angle finger crack in a right facing corner. This turns into a wider crack with some "chockstones" and a "knifeblade" flake of dubious stability. Navigate through these and move up and right to a flake with beautiful hands. Climb to a roof, pass on right then back left to a hanging belay on the arete (5.9, 35m)

p.3 Traverse right across horizontals, past the obvious corner, to a splitter thin crack. Climb the splitter crack up to the right side of a chockstone, traverse left over chockstone, then up through notch. Climb up and pass several large ledges and a fixed pin, belaying as high as you wish. (5.9, 67m)

P.4 Climb up and gain the ridge. 4th/easy 5th class. (35m)

p.5 Continue along the ridge to a spot where it widens and drops to a notch below the summit block. (4th/easy 5th, 35m)

Either escape right to gully, (4th class) or rappel left and find a direct route to the summit from the south.

Read about my excursion here: Ra Mountain

Location 

East face of Ra Mountain. See description above.

Protection 

Double set of cams from blue alien to #3 Camalot. We brought a #4 but did not use it.


Photos of Northeast Corners (variation?) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Joe Frost following the second pitch.
Joe Frost following the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Northeast Corners; Ra Mountain.
BETA PHOTO: Northeast Corners; Ra Mountain.

Comments on Northeast Corners (variation?) Add Comment
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By Frost
Jun 9, 2015

Pitch 3's what you came for. Perfect granite, double length runners, splitters and overhangs, oh my!

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