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The Bastille - N Face
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Northeast Corner 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: J. Stuberg, T. Wilmering
Season: Gets mostly shade
Page Views: 697
Submitted By: Tony B on May 12, 2013

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  • Description 

    One for the obscure tour. While it is only feet from the road it took me 18 years to get around to it. No matter the option taken to finish the route, there are some flaws, and are some nicer sections. The overall balance makes the route one worth doing for the completist, and not totally worthy of shunning for the rest of the community.

    The crux may be in the interesting climbing (10a) done getting to the shared section of P2 of March Of Dimes, or perhaps that shared section of March of Dimes (10a), or best of all, going slightly right and connecting to the 2nd pitch variant for March Of Dimes (10c) that is just to the right.

    In any case, some occasional grit from lack of travel makes this route one for the experienced climber. Also, note that the route takes poor stoppers and is pretty much tip-sized cams (0.3") for most of the way. I didn't have that size and was less than pleased with my options for protection a few times.

    P1: (70' Cl4, dirty) Start off on the left side of the March Of Dimes Buttress in a junky gully/ramp. If it has recently rained, this will be mossy and slick, otherwise it is a 4th class scramble. Belay at a high point above a fairly large tree at a crack just left of March of Dimes.

    P2: (105' 5.10, small gear) Look up a right-leaning, low angle corner that leads up and right into a brown and yellow section of wall. A very large, upright flake punctuates the brown area where rockfall more recent than the surroundings has revealed cleaner stone and a flake that appears to be somewhat precarious. Head up to that flake on the brown area with the yellow lichen above and right. Climb either side of it for a crux (left, 10a, right 10c) that is thin (blue Alien, perhaps?) and steep. Continue up onto lower angle rock and flee right to the belay as for Werk Supp or run it out a little more to the top of the ledge directly over the flake (5.8?) and belay at a good tree.

    P3: (5.3- 5.10c, depending) Three choices here:

    A. (5.2) up and left around the corner and up a right leaning ramp to get to the rap chains on March of Dimes.
    B. (5.10c) Directly up P3 of March of Dimes to the chains, just to your right.
    C. (5.7) Out and right along a long and narrow ramp system to join Bastille Crack and to the top via that climb.


    This route starts off to the left of the March Of Dimes buttress and finishes at the March of Dimes P3 start, or traverses up the same ramp into the Bastille Crack.


    A standard light rack with an extra 1.5-1.75" cam (green Camalot) and 2 or more tips-sized cams - i.e. blue/purple Alien.

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