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Northeast Buttress T 

Northeast Buttress 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Mark Grundon Marcello Gonzalez Rodrigo Maldonado
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 12
Submitted By: Mark Grundon on Mar 31, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The spire

Description 

P1 5.7 stem up large pillar to clip a bolt. Climb up to a ledge. 3 bolts 20 m. P2 5.4 climb over easy bulges past three bolts to lower angle choss terrain. The anchor is on the right in the bushy fully feature. P3 5.9 climb up to a bolt go up and right climbing the right side of a flake protected by a bolt. Climb up to a ledge climb a nice easy crack up to some fun face climbing that gets chossier and chossier. The anchor is to the left near the ridge. P4 5.5 R choss climb the sketchy ridge to the summit. There is a sub anchor to rappell so you can get your rope back on the mostly horizontal rappell. No anchor on the true summit.

Location 

Hike past the remains of a house and walk around the base of the spire up and climbers rigjt up a loose gully. Start at the base of a tree. The route starts by scrambling up the left side of a rock pillar and then stemming up to a bolt. The bolt is not visible from the base.

Protection 

Single set of cams and long slings


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