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Oestlicher Mur de Pisciadu
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Northeast Buttress T 

Northeast Buttress 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1460', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: D. Zanesco & M. Toretta 1983
Season: Summer, after snow melts.
Page Views: 34
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Feb 10, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: The route follows a line just in from the left edg...

Description 

This is an easy climb suitable for beginners and older children. Pitch (1) starts out easy at maybe 5.2-5.3, with the difficulty increasing to 5.4 as the angle steepens. Belay at fixed piton. Pitch (2) climbs easy rock past two or 3 threaded "Sanduhrs" to another piton belay. (3) continue upward past a series of threads. (4) keep on going by following the threads. Belay at a stance with threaded "Sanduhr." (5) Continue up the rounded buttress passing more threaded protection. Belay at a 2 piton anchor stance. (6) A short crack is followed to a lowere angle grassy portion of the wall, not at all technical. (7) Trudge upwards for ~ 40 meters where the wall again steepens. Belay at a threaded Sanduhr anchor. At this point the difficulty eases to minimal technical stndards for another 3 pitches, using threads and tied off knobs for protection.
Descend over a climbers path to the Pisciadu Hut for some refreshments and follow path # 646 back to the parking area.

Location 

From marked path # 646, look for an enormous block near the formation; circle around the left side of this to find the well worn start of the climb.

Protection 

All necessary protection is fixed, either bolts/pitons or threaded "Sanduhr" (hourglass) with fixed slings.


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