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NorthEast Arete 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Submitted By: kenr on Jan 16, 2016

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Description 

Tricky start, then lots of rather fun easier moves above.

Up the arete using the obvious crack on its right side for handholds as needed.
. . Variation (less fun?): Use the crack for footholds also.
Above the crack, keep going on the arete.

A climber on Top-Rope who wants to enjoy the easier fun stuff without first struggling through the difficult start, might either
(a) get an experienced partner to hang some aid slings or etrier from a trad protection piece set in the lower section of the crack; or
(b) first climb Leonosphere then get lowered down into this route, but stop the lowering about eight feet above the ground.

Since this route is new as of 2016, expect loose rock and breaking holds. The belayer or other persons should not stand anywhere near underneath the route.

Location 

The arete where the east face and north face meet, with an obvious crack two or three feet to its right which goes to halfway up.
See routes photo.

Protection 

Top-Roping: Can use the Leonosphere top anchor supplemented with a directional on a small horn toward top of arete and another directional near the top of the crack.

Protection for trad leading is unknown so far (though the crack along its right side looks encouraging).


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