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Sundance Pinnacle
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North Face T 
Northeast Arete T 
Right Crack T 

Northeast Arete 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Collins, Mal Miller, Reave Castenholtz 1982
Page Views: 3,801
Submitted By: jyount on Jul 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Looking down on the crux finger crack pitch.


A proud line to the summit of Sundance Pinnacle. The crux splitter finger crack on the NE face/arete is visible as you begin the climb to north lake.
The base of the route is accessed by 400ft of 4th and easy 5th class scrambling to a right facing 5.8 corner below the giant right corner offwidth. Ascend this corner trending right to a large ledge, 5.8 140ft.
Climb a discontinouse crack system trending right to a nice right facing corner. Fire to the end of the crack and bust the Manley mantle. Clip the old button head bolt (yikes!) and traverse right (crux) to the splitter tips crack. Git your slab game face on and bring the rp's/offsets. Belay at the small ledge, 5.10b/c 180ft.
More tips to a hand traverse right and airy climbing to the summit (f&**ing rad), 5.10- 150ft.


Walkoff to the west and around to the north or south.


Doubles w/ baby cams and rp's/offsets

Photos of Northeast Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch 5.8 hand traverse
Last pitch 5.8 hand traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Route Overlay, Northeast Arete (5.10c) of Sundance...
Route Overlay, Northeast Arete (5.10c) of Sundance...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch 5.8 hand traverse
Last pitch 5.8 hand traverse

Comments on Northeast Arete Add Comment
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By MarkJ
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 27, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great Climb with a little confusion about the 3rd of the upper pitches.

We followed the description provided by the Bechtel guide (Cirque of TheTowers & Deep Lake: A Select Guide to The Wind Rivers' Best Rock Climbs). The verbal description of the 5 main pitches was quite reasonable. However, the photograph in that guide and in the beta photo for Sundance Pinnacle on MP show the Northeast Arete and Right Crack as completely separate routes than never overlap. The way we ended up going using Bechtel for guidance had us overlap with Right Crack for perhaps 40 feet then stepping right and up to the stance below the Northeast Arete crux pitch. If you didn't traverse right we could climbed directly up the Right Crack splitter pitch. Have people climbed this such that they didn't end up briefly overlapping with Right Crack?

By my reckoning the upper pitches went. 5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.10c, 5.10-

Rock Climbing Photo: Route Taken
Route Taken
By burado
From: New Hampshire
Aug 19, 2015

My partner and I did this last week. Great line. The 5.10c pitch has it all and doesn't feel that scary, there is no mention of a bolt or slab traverse in the book, so I was in for quite the surprise.
We also overlapped the Right Crack route for about 40 feet following the description in the guidebook. The first pitch we started up a corner that was thin at the bottom and a little dirty. This led up to a wider (3-4") crack at the top. Felt hard for 5.8, but I think it was the way. I trundled a microwave-sized hollow flake on the first pitch at the top of the corner, now there is a nice crimp where the death block was. After choosing where to start, the route-finding felt very straightforward.
By Gee Double
Jun 28, 2016

Rest in peace, Mal and Reave.
By Chris Dickson
From: Telluride, Colorado
Sep 2, 2016

The bolt was still an old button-head as of mid-August, 2016. Luckily, you clip the bolt, downclimb a few moves, and do the traverse right with a mini-TR. If you fell there, it wouldn't put a lot of sudden force on the bolt.

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