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The Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ahab T 
Amputee Love T 
Buffoon T 
C'est What? S 
Clementine T 
Dihedral One T 
Dihedral Two T 
East Slabs T 
Fight Gone Bad T 
Finger Crack T 
Free Speech S 
Gumbo T 
Gut Feeling T 
Horangutan T 
Jack The Ripper T 
Jim Crack T 
Kid's Climb T 
Left Arete T 
M aka The Divine Ms. M T 
Martindale T 
Monument, The S 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 
New Cambria T,TR 
No Problem T 
Northeast Arete T 
Second Coming S,TR 
Spoof T 
Spoof Roof T 
West Crack T,TR 
West Dihedral T,TR 
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 

Northeast Arete 

YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 4th French: 1 Ewbanks: 2 UIAA: I ZA: 2 British: M 1b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 989
Submitted By: Jason Haas on Mar 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>


If you are soloing on the Whale's Tail, this is the easiest descent, although if you left any gear at the base of the route or are going to solo another route on the Whale's Tail, I think downclimbing the West Crack is the easiest and quickest option. The Northeast Arete is easy, it just takes longer to get back to where you started.


Once you top out on the summit, head North (if on the West Crack, continue going straight back, as if towards the gully on the left side of Wind Tower). It is easiest to stay on the left side of the ridge (closest to the Redgarden Wall) and then follow the slabby arete down to connect with the upper trail.


You may be able to pop in a nut or two if necessary or sling the tiny tree along the traverse. This route is best used as a downclimb for people soloing.

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