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Jamcrack Spire
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North Wide Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown/undocumented (Bubb/Haas Free solo 9/06)
New Route: Yes
Season: Autumn
Page Views: 525
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 24, 2006

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  • Description 

    This route starts off perhaps 25 meters down and left from the Western edge of the North Face of the Jamcrack Spire. Start up a steep lelft-leaning handcrack (2.5", 5.8 to start) and get established in this as it widens... climb to the initial crack's end, and continue up and slightly right in a second system. The climbing is mostly 5.6 and heads up toward the arete on the right, criss-crossing it on a set of handcracks (5.8) or riding directly up it (5.7, exposed, less protected) to the top of the rock. This route shares some territory with the existing route, Right For Grapenuts (5.9+) on the upper part, but it is not known how much and depends upon the line you take (crack or direct face) anyway.
    This could be a reasonably well protected line most of the way, we believed.


    Starting in a low angle wide crack down left of the Routes 'Left Crack' and 'Right One' on the Western end of the North Face of the Jamcrack Spire and continuing generally up and right in a system of handcracks.


    A standard rack with cams to 4" and lots of long slings. Extra 2.5" and 3" units would be advised for a minimal runout.

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