The North Wall is another steep sport wall in Big Chief. As with the rest of Big Chief, the rock is basalt. Here, the rock formed a little differently than further south, resulting in overhung shear slabs devoid of any holds, punctuated with broken parts. This usually results in steep, challenging, VERY sporty routes.
Everything is bolted, coldshuts are common and often old-looking, all routes all under 100 feet, and I would imagine you could lower off with a 50m rope. (not sure though)
The Oven is the inset part of the wall that contains some steep sporty routes. Can't really say i know why it got a different name.
Approach time: ~20 minutes.
From the parking lot, head down the main path to the west, which consists of a former gravel road that has large trees cast through the center of it at the parking lot to ensure that people can no longer drive to the former lot.
After .6 miles of the gentle remnants of the dirt road, you will come to the former lot. From here head uphill for about 50 vertical feet on the narrowing trail to a fork. At the fork, you should head right, and this will take you up to the north pass.
Just over the north pass, hang a right and soon you will find yourself at the North Wall... the first two bolted routes are not overhung, but continue a little further to find yourself in the Oven.
Climbing Season For the Big Chief area.
Weather station 3.6 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in North Wall
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for North Wall:
Half Baked 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Featured Route For North Wall
Half Baked 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b CA
: ... : North Wall
This route heads up the center of The Oven, and is hard as hell to figure out which route is it until you've been up another route to get a look at all the bolts on the wall.The easiest way to find it is to look for the clusterfuck of bolts in the center of the oven, look for the two routes that seem to intertwine (because they do) but share the first four bolts, and then choose the bolt route between the two that heads up the less steep terrain (which is to the right.) Another good way to get y...[more] Browse More Classics in CA