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Cleaver Peak
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North Summit, West Face T 

North Summit, West Face 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: summer, autumn
Page Views: 814
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on May 24, 2009

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Cleaver Peak from the west.

Description 

Of the two summits, the north is slightly higher. Viewed from the west one can see a conspicuous pinnacle north of this summit.
The route ascends the gully/chimney leading to the platform separating this tower from the main peak. From the top of the chimney scramble right (south) to the blocky summit rocks and climb steep cracks on the east side of the formation. The actual top is a few steps further south.
Descend via downclimbing the route, or a set up a couple of short rappels.
The summit provides unique views of the range and the route is a quick, enjoyable, alpine experience on an important Teton peak.

Location 

Scramble up the initial part of the gully and rope up as party ability dictates. Some loose rock is present in the lower section and the route is seldom done, so care throughout is a good idea.

Protection 

A small rack of a few stoppers and cams is sufficient. One rope is sufficient even if rapping the route, but don't count on finding anchors already set up.


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